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#17959 04/18/05 07:43 PM
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From 4-14 to 4-16 Great weather and snow conditions.Snow was melting fast in The North Fork but still able to walk up with out using the ledges.Alot of snow from LBS all the way up.The first chute after the notch had hard snow and nice steps kicked in all the way up.Be carefull out there.

#17960 04/18/05 09:18 PM
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How close were you able to drive to the Portal? What elevation did you park at?
What was the condition of the road?
Did you carry or use snowshoes?

#17961 04/18/05 09:52 PM
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I was up there too from 4/15 to 4/17. Here's a report (a little long sorry) I posted on the www.mt-whitney.info board:

Good news. For those heading up to the Portal, you can now get further than before. Though there is a road closed sign (positioned near the rockfall zone) the road has been plowed (one narrow lane only) to just below the overflow parking area. This occurred just this past weekend. Those who didn't wish to pass the road closed sign were parking near the rockslide area. Except for one large rock all rock debris has been cleared off the road.

On Friday (4/15) when I headed up an impassable berm of trees had been piled up by the dozer (who was busy that day) forcing my group to park down at the first switchback (7100 ft). This was later removed.

There is still a lot of snow at the Portal. The top of the Whitney Trailhead sign was just barely visible. Beyond the vicinity of the trailhead the main trail is almost entirely clear of snow to the North Fork Lone Pine Creek crossing. Beyond that point the main trail appears to be mostly covered by snow. The North Fork route has total snow coverage except for the first few hundred feet or so. The North Fork drainage below LBSL is filled with plenty of snow. The creek is covered by snow and is only visible occasionally. There were no problems crossing snow bridges though the first bridge may soon collapse. The Ebersbacher Ledges appear clear of snow though there is no need to use them. Things were really getting warm in the afternoon and the melt rate is beginning to increase. In the morning the hike up to LBSL was nice for crampons. We kept them on almost all the way to UBSL.

In the afternoon the snow got quite soft and we started to posthole. Below UBSL we decided that since we brought the snowshoes we might as well use them and thus put them on for our final push to base camp. If you can do all your hiking before noon you might be able to get by without snowshoes, but if you're hiking in the afternoon you might want to bring them because the postholing can get pretty unpleasant.

Overnight temperature at UBSL was 24 degrees F one night and 30 degrees the next. Because of surface melt and refreezing the snow (at least near UBSL) is becoming crusty and slippery in the mornings. Thus, things change quite a bit from morning to afternoon.

There was a mixture of snow leading up to the notch. In some places it was powder soft and in others it was hard. You never knew what each step would bring. One would be soft the next hard. The conditions changed throughout the day as the snow went from sun to shadow. Glissading below the notch wasn't much of an option (due to the hard spots) except down lower where things were softer. We took our crampons off on the way down (because we were hoping to glissade) but I think we would actually have gotten down faster (and safer) had we left them on.

Conditions in the chute above the notch to me seemed as ideal as could be expected. Snow was firm and allowed for good grip from our crampons. There is a very nice ramp of snow leading up into the chute. You must cross a small rock band (perhaps 20 feet) which is clear of ice. Since everyone seems to stick to the same tracks you essentially have nice steps (complete with holes to sink in your ice axe handle) all the way up. This really helps out on the way down. Everyone seemed to frontpoint all or most of the way down. There is a nice cornice at the top. The tracks leading up split two ways and you can either go up to the left or right of the cornice. I would not attempt a glissade in the chute. Because the snow is firm, a slip could easily be fatal (as recent events have shown).

The other option, the traverse above the North Face, looks a bit sketchy. I saw two people do it, though most used the chute. Because of the way snow has piled up the traverse is steeper than it is when it's clear later in the year. Again, a slip is easily fatal.

The summit has patchy snow. The summit hut is filled with snow to within 6 inches of the ceiling -- not an option if you intend to spend the night.

Photos from this past weekend are here:

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewer.asp?FolderID=382">Whitney MR Photos 4/15-4/17</a>

-Rick

#17962 04/18/05 09:53 PM
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On the way out Saturday 4-16 one lane had been plowed almost to the portal.I did take snow shoes but did not use them.

#17963 04/18/05 10:23 PM
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Hey Russ, I see you signed in the register the same day as my group of 3. I'll bet you were the solo climber we talked to at Iceberg Lake.

-Rick

#17964 04/18/05 11:48 PM
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Thanks for posting what must surely be the definitive set of pictures for a winter MR climb.

I'm also glad to know that you're all safe.

#17965 04/19/05 12:53 AM
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Rick, great photo album you posted! Thanks for getting us all to the top and back down. Quite a feast for our eyes thru your multitudiness shots. Your sunrise over New York Butte is great. I was able to spot Telescope Peak and White Mountain Peak, both 73 miles away, and Waucoba's top 34 miles away, but Charleston at 146 miles and Baldy at 162 miles eluded me--too much haze on Baldy's horizon. Nevertheless, good photos all away around. I look forward to more of your postings. smile

#17966 04/19/05 02:52 AM
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Rick Kent you are right about our talk at Iceberg.Hope your group had a safe climb.And you made it to your ride with out having to walk to far.

#17967 04/19/05 01:56 PM
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Rick,

Very nice pictures. Thanks for posting!

halfdomehike(r)

#17968 04/19/05 05:54 PM
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Rick, another thank you for posting the excellent photos. Without question the best and most complete pictures of the MR between Iceberg Lake and the summit. What sets your collection apart is that you actually show climbers on the difficult sections of the climb and descent. While other collections I have seen are mostly taken during breaks or in camp. Great job!

#17969 04/19/05 06:41 PM
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Rick,

Great Photos, they have clarified things quite a bit for me. What is the estimated distance of the class 3 chute from the notch to the summit plateau? It looks like a few hundred feet, is this in the ballpark? Thanks again!

#17970 04/19/05 07:08 PM
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From a<a href="http://www.topozone.com/map.asp?z=11&n=4048973&e=384472&s=9.84&size=l&datum=nad83&layer=DRG25"> Topozone look</a>, the notch is about 4300 M, and the peak is 4416. So the chute is about 100 meters vertical, and 150 horizontal. If my math is correct, that's almost 600 ft.

#17971 04/19/05 10:48 PM
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brought back memories - thanks Mr. Kent

#17972 04/20/05 10:36 PM
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As an added bonus I've created a video from footage I shot on the M.R. It's about 13 minutes long. I've created two versions: a lower quality video (21Mb) and a higher quality one (66Mb).

Since the high quality one takes quite awhile to download I'll just post the link to the lower quality one. That one takes long enough and my bandwidth is limited.

Anyway, if you have a high speed connection and are interested here's the link:

<a href="http://www.rickkent.net/ViewerPlus/viewphoto.asp?ID=49928">Mountaineer's Route Video (13 min, 21Mb)</a>

-Rick

#17973 04/20/05 10:56 PM
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Great video and beautiful sunset at the end.

#17974 04/21/05 10:22 PM
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Rick - those steps you were following above the notch were ours - kicked in by Kurt Wedberg -
. (we were also on fixed lines 93 pitches) from the notch to the summit. I'm just wondering if you were the guys who took our group photo on the summit...(at about 12.30 on Sunday?) if so, thanks. What a great weather break we had.

#17975 04/21/05 11:59 PM
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Nope sorry, my group reached the summit on Saturday. Did you guys get any sleep Saturday night? That wind was sure relentless. I sure didn't. I kinda wish we'd condensed our trip to a 2 day. We had time to hike out after summitting on Saturday but wanted to wait till morning for the firm snow. Were you guys the ones camped out between UBSL and Iceberg Lake?

-Rick

#17976 04/23/05 03:42 PM
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Thanks for taking the time to film. Watching your trip was cool!


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