Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Crampons?

Just this past weekend I went to REI to buy a pair of Black Diamond Contact Crampons. I told the guy helping me that I was going to hike the main trail in late June and needed the campons in order to cross some snow and ice on the trail to help me and he said I was crazy. First, he accused me of having the wrong boots for the job. I wear a pair of Asolo Cerro Torre GTX's, which have Goretex lining. He said that my boots would get very wet and the crampons would soon tear them apart. He said that I should buy a pair of all leather boots. Then he said that since this is my first time buying crampons I would need to go take at least 3 classes on how to use them and then he said that I "HAD" to have an ice axe to go with them. I quess the guy thought we were going up the Mountaineeres route or something. So, I didn't buy them at REI and headed down the freeway to Adventure16 and they made alot more sense. My question is, do you need special boots or an ice axe, I all ready have treking poles? I know my fellow hikers will aid me in clearing this situation up.

Thanks, matt

Hard to say really...
It all depends on the conditions and your skills.
We brought crampons with us the first time we did the trail in late May and they were not very necessary on the main trail. However, if you were to be late getting down and encountered some severe ice, then you might be glad that you had them. They are fairly heavy and you may not even use them, but some people do bring them just in case. Still, June is a good month as far as weather/conditions go so you are not likely to see much ice except at the highest elevations. You can also rent them if you don't want to purchase. As far as the comment about 3 classes/clinics...yes, it is always best to get some skills and learn how to be safe up high through clinics or training. Crampons can be somewhat awkward to walk in as well. But, the main trail is what it says...a trail...so no major skills are required for route finding. Besides that, the trail does have many of the perils of any high mountain such as ice, rock falls, crazy weather, etc...but I would say it requires more of a high comfort level with outdoor adverturing/backpacking than technical mountaineering. Still, some folks do bring ice axes although there are very few places that one could self arrest. Many also bring helmets since rocks do come down off the mountain...especially when there are many people on the trail. Your boots will probably be fine for June, but would do so good for winter conditions. They may not do very well with crampons though, but I really doubt you will need crampons for June. It's funny that the particular person you spoke too was such a pain. When I spoke to a guy at REI prior to my first trip to the mountain, he suggested "instep"-type crampons which are like mini crampons that are much lighter and cheaper than the full monty. They offer a little bit of spikey action for stability on the occasional ice field/patch. This is probably what you might want to CYA with in June. Experience tells me that climbing Whitney via the main trail is more about fitness, safty/common sense, and determination than particular pieces of gear. Bring an ice axe if you want, but your poles will probably be fine for keeping your ballance...esp in June. There are a few steep snow fields to cross, but it's really pretty mellow. I think a helmet would be the best thing to invest in since rocks are always coming down from up high on mountains...especially on the switch backs between Trail Camp and Trail Crest. Also, if you like your boots and they do good for you with loads, then I say use them. There's no real need for a "mountaineering" boot for a summer trip. That part sounds to me like they guy @ REI was really trying to sell you. I think I know the boots you have and they are pretty good...esp w/ GorTEX.

That's all I have and I'm no major expert, but that's my 2-cents...maybe some other people with more experience will have some slightly better advice. I think the most important thing is to be comfortable enough in the wild to get yourself out of a JAM if one presents itself.

Good luck on the climb......Icculus

There is a learning curve for crampons but not a big one, at least to trail walk on them. I wouldn't want to hike something as exposed as where you will have to use them on the Main Trail without some experience. In June you may not need the ice axe but I think I would want one, at least the first time up this mountain. As an aside the passes up north are opening earlier than last year, something I didn't think was possible, so there might not be as much snow up there again this year. The only place you might need for self arrest would be upper part of the switchback where the "chute" is, someone with more early season experience can guide you better.

You should be fine with the boot crampon combo you have, I have a similar set up and the crampons have *not* damaged my boots.

Bill

Bill

If you're on an established trail you might look into a pair of instep crampons. I find them very effective on low- to mid- angle slopes, they're cheap, comfy, light, small... Full on crampons are a bit of overkill on-trail imho.

I took along instep crampons on the main trail last October. They took all the treacherous slipperiness out of the icy switchbacks. Hikers with just poles were slipping quite a bit. I saw only one hiker with an ice axe, it looked like dead weight to me. Instep crampons will work well on most any hiking boots. One caution - you might want to use gaiters or tuck your pants in your socks. Catching a crampon point on your pants can cause a fall.

I own three different sets of strap on crampons and I have some instep ones also. The instep ones work best for walking down a trail that is icy. If you are going straight up a steep hill, then don't have much contact with the snow (since they are right under the ball of your foot in the middle.) Strap on crampons work fine, provided the boots are a little heavier and don't flex too much. They also have step in crampons for heavy mountaineering boots that don't bend much,.....This year the current snow pack is about 80% of normal. I would be very surprised if you have much use for crampons by June. I think by June instep are enough for the regular trail; simple to use, don't take up much space and they are very light compared to the regular ones. Up on the 97 switchbacks were the water turns to ice, they would be helpful.

Thanks for all the posts, I will take into consideration all the info that was provided. Thanks, Matt