Went up Army pass a couple days ago out of curiosity. Day hike on purpose to see the snow mid day and see how soft and deep it actually is.
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/qGlrpa0.jpeg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/5hSxbXF.jpeg)
![[Linked Image from i.imgur.com]](https://i.imgur.com/gLw33hi.jpeg)
The lower switchbacks were dry. Still a big snowfield covering the long stretch to the upper switchbacks. The upper switchbacks were mostly covered with some rock passage west of them. Then big drifts over the entire top segment still with the usual enormous one at the very top. I bailed along the top, it got too soft and steep for the exposure beneath.
I went up one of the very early 'chutes'. Still deep and steep snow but safer being able to weave between rock (putting safety beneath) and eventually a fun rock scramble. I needed both of my axes though, I had to sink them entirely vertically to prowl up distributing weight on all fours. I can't imagine that firming up much anymore. The lower flatter snow had ~4 inches of soft snow over a firm pack mid afternoon but the steep stuff was more like 12-36 inches of soft slush over questionably spooky pack.
So I don't think I'd recommend the pass right now. Maybe on early morning firm snow, but even that window seems to be closing? One person had gone up and down in the morning that day who I spoke with and he said he was already post holing coming down (you can see his footprints). Maybe best to wait for full melt. Curious to hear anyone's opinion on that.