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#10038 01/19/04 06:24 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
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Has anyone attempted a summit bid of Mt. Whitney via the MR over the last few weeks? What are the conditions? (i.e. Whitney trail to the ledges, LBSC, UBSC, Iceberg, the Notch etc.? Portal road
conditions....how far up can you get in a 4wd vehicle? Snow depth and conditions on all access trails? Avalanche concerns / conditions?

We are planning a climbing trip to Whitney at end of February - beginning of March. Any information between now and then would be greatly appreciated. We will reciprocate with useful information for the group when we return from our climb. Thanks.

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We're going to attempt the MR during the week of the 26th. I'll post a report as soon as we get back.
-Steve

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How was your trip? Any news?

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I just saw this post on summitpost.com

Topic: Whitney MR - I just got back (Attn: tauru007)
Mjollnir
[member info] posted 2004-01-27 11:13:26 Reply to This Topic

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Weather stayed great. Whitney Portal Road is good (in a 4x4) to about a mile from the trailhead. On our way up we saw tauru007 and 2 of his partners coming down. They had turned back just below LBSL because the snow sucked and they didn't like the look of the route above. We thanked them for breaking so much trail and headed up.
We reached the point just below where they turned back and bivied for the night. The next morning my partner (the bearded guy) decided he wasn't cut out out for cold mountains and split. I continued up alone. Breaking trail was miserable. Snowshoes were worthless in this snow (it was the dry soft sugary stuff) and only slowed me down. Eventually I came to some low angled rock slabs that would offer me an escape from the snow. I was on the right side of the creek. The slabs required a few 5th class moves to get onto (I picked a 4ft overhung open book to get onto the slabs.) It required crampons. After an ridiculous hour of hauling my pack up behind me I was finally traversing the slabs towards the creek. Then my footholds (THIN ice) burst and I went zipping down 30ft of rock into the snow. I slid down the snow for a few feet and stopped. After another hour of trying to make progress in the snow I had had enough. I turned around.
I assume that the slopes above LBSL and Clyde Meadows are in equally crappy shape. If I were going up again I would stay away from the right side of the creek and shoot for the left side. If you do go up the right side I would not recommend following the tracks that lead up to the little open book.
Tauru007 - we need to hook up for a climb. I've got unfinished business with Whitney (thats the 2nd time Whitney's snow has handed me my ass) and am looking at Rainier in the spring. Shoot me an email.

-Steve

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I would like to make a point about the story from Steve or 1531. Being in the SAR field I just hate it when I read about people who climb alone on a route such as the MR on Whitney in the snow no less. Attempting a class 5 move in the snow and bragging about it is about as sane as the guy who cut off his arm in Utah last year. You can get pissed off but these are the same folks who need us to come save there sorry butts and risk our own lives. If we find the lost hiker on Shasta from about five years ago during our joint training this year' I will be more than happy to send pictures of what folks like this will look like as they get older! Climb safe and be smart.
Drew

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Thanks for the posts. And I tend to agree with the last poster. Falling 30ft. is not a good thing so please be more careful. Next time you may not come to rest in snow but rather may have your fall interrupted by a large, unmoveable boulder.

So I'll assume by your post that you got as far as Lower Boy Scout Lake. Was the pitch to Upper Boy Scout camp the pitch you were worried about? Were most of the problems you encountered on the way up the ledges to the Saddle?

Has anyone gotten to Iceburg or the summit?

Is there tons of debris on the portal road? Can you at least drive to the Meysan Lake cutoff? Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

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Pardon me for pointing this out, but the "guy in Utah" (Aron Ralston http://www.geocities.com/aronralston/) didn't get rescued by SAR. He did what he had to do to rescue himself. Having soloed all of the CO 14ers in winter, it is reasonably certain that he understood and accepted the risks.

Mountaineering is inherently dangerous. People have accidents and sometimes die, even using the buddy system, even using trasceivers, even when climbing with a belay. The only way to make it completely safe is to not go. Soloing 5th class terrain in winter is not exactly pushing any alpine climbing standards. That said, the report of a 30 foot groundfall certainly makes it seem that the author of the post under discussion may have been a bit out of his element.

As someone in the SAR field, I am sure that you would like to emphasize that being adequately prepared for self-rescue is by far the safest way to go.

Travelling among the mountains brings freedom. Let's keep it that way. The safety nannies are now requiring that hikers and climbers carry cell phones (and maybe GPS?) in some areas. In most areas we are still free to go into the mountains in our own style and using our own judgement. We all need to remember that with that freedom comes responsibility for ourselves and our partners.

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Guys - I appreciate your concerns. That said, I've been in the mountains before and I understand/accept the risks involved. As soon as I felt "stretched" I turned around. The only rescue I've EVER considered is self-rescue.
Regarding my fall - it's potential was acknowledged before I even attempted to get on the slabs. I had just waded through the snow I was to plop into. And please note the term "low-angled", The fall was no more than an icey/rocky glissade. Crag is right - 5th class moves in the snow are no big deal. I wasn't bragging, just telling my little story.
I apologize for offending anyone's sense of sensibility. I simply feel I'm a decent judge of my own limitations and I live by the idea that I can handle myself. It'll be my own ass the day I'm incorrect about that.

-Steve


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