Jack, thanks for sharing this story.
I have another "Not just another cook" story:
Some years ago I decided to attempt the Mountaineer's Route. I did some study and decided it wise to drop by the Whitney Portal Store the day before the attempt to try to fine tune what I had read and to get some tips.
So the day before the hike I walk into the Portal Store and approach a pleasant lady taking food orders. When I mention that I am looking for advice on the Mountaineer's Route, she calls out to the cook back in the kitchen. An enthusiastic and friendly fellow comes out from the kitchen. I immediately get the impression that he sincerely wants to field my questions. In fact he says, "Meet me on the Portal Store porch at 6 tomorrow morning and we will head up the Mountaineer's Route." I turn to the lady and say, "Is this guy for real?" She nods yes.
So that is how I first came to know Doug Sr and his wife Earlene.
The following day the weather was great and we went up the Mountaineer's Route to the Summit and then descended the same route with a few variations. Doug taught me a great deal about the Mountain and its history, route options, the key hand and foot holds,...
Doug might not appreciate it, but over the following years I have always felt I owed him big time. His family and the Portal Crew are really solid people.
Jim