Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mt. Russell East Ridge for First Timers

Hi guys. After taking a 4 year hiatus from backpacking and this forum, I've decided to do Mt. Russell via East Ridge. I was able to procure a solo pass for August. I do have some 3rd class experience with having done Mt.Whitney Mountaineering Route a couple of times. However, Mt. Russell looks like an entirely new animal. As somebody who has a fear of heights, the exposure is very intimidating. Anybody on this forum climbed the East Ridge for the first time and summitted? How gnarly is that exposure? Anybody ever slip and fall off the East Ridge? Kindly provide any tips for the first timer. Thanks in advance.

The East Ridge is a true classic. I’ve done it several times, including once in winter. It poses three distinct challenges:
1. Route finding can be a little tricky. There are several places where being just the right distance right/north of the crest is the easiest way up. Study the route carefully as you go, and don’t be too proud to backtrack and try something else if you get the feeling that there ought to be an easier way.
2. The climbing difficulty isn’t bad. Lots of class 3 on mostly very good rock. I would say that the hardest climbing on Russell is slightly harder than the hardest climbing on the “Final 400” on the Whitney Mountaineers’ Route. However, there is more climbing at that level on Russell than on the MR. As on the MR, there are plenty of places to stop, rest, and plan your next moves.
3. The exposure on Russell can be intimidating. I remember looking at the route from Carillon my first time there. It looked unclimbable. I had to check my briefs several times to make sure I had brought my balls and hadn’t left them at home. Once I got on the route, it was easier than it looked from a distance. If you’re not going to fall, it doesn’t matter how far down it is.

Hi Over the years this question is brought up often , I helped a lady many years ago with details on reaching the summit , she turned back the first time and ask if I thought it was harder than class 3, It had been several years since I climbed Russel so I went up to check , I now call the route class 2 climbing with high class 5 exposure. She came back and has repeated the route several times. As Bob posted you need to pick your way to find the easier path, stay off the ridge proper and lean towards the north on the first section, always watch for ice and loose rock.
I gave up talking about the direct route above Lower Boyscout Lake but when you hit the slabs above LBL look east of the scree slope and try that up to the bowl just above the scree field this will be on solid rock save the tread mill and about 1/2 hour.

Peter Croft calls this one of the Classic climb in the Sierra I agree.

A rope may add security the first time and belay several short sections. I hesitate to say this. First look for the walking and use of hands for balance sections.

I did the East Ridge solo the first time. I climbed Mt. Carillon first, and from there Russell looks impossible. But once I began scrambling up the East Ridge, I found that the route unfolded before me as I went, never encountering any difficult climbing or severe exposure. There is always a way to go around any difficult section just by dropping slightly on the north side.

Thanks for the response gentlemen. I guess I'm not doing myself a favor by watching those YouTube videos. I will go in August and post a TR when I'm done. Thanks again.

Hi Mono..Here are some pictures from Sept. 2012 my first time, we didn't make it to the true summit(ran out of time) but we will finish off Russell this summer..
There was frost on the slabs and I said to myself more than a few times "what the f**k am I doing here". Had a great time with Tracie, Shin and Cory. Doug showed us the way from the slabs though the trees up the scree..

enjoy the pictures..

mark
pictures here

Hi What did you guys hide under "that" rock you keep sticking your hands behind? Hey you guys did a great job. As I always say it takes us at least 4 times before we have the most direct , safest and clean way up most of these rocks. I worked on the section below Iceberg many times before I gave up and now take the walk up.

Those are great pics. Thanks. As Bob said, it does look like the last 400 ft. of MR. I did pad my stay for an extra day or two just in case I ran out of sunlight. Thanks again.

Lake Tulainyo!