Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mount Russell: Thompson Variation #2

In June I topped out Thompson Variation #2 which is an alternative approach to Mount Russell's classic East Ridge.

Unfortunately I needed to turn around after completing the variation, and thusly I was thwarted for the second time.

Most people use the traditional sand-slog from Upper Boy Scout Lake to approach Russell, but the Thompson route bypasses a lot of sand for "slabbier" class 3 alternatives.

When I snagged Doug Thompson Sr.(the eponymous pioneer of the variation) in the Whitney Portal Store he showed me the route and asked me to photograph it and post a TR and Route Description (apparently most who have asked him ended up in the sand)if I managed to find it.

So for the down-to-business type, you can find the direct (if not loquacious) description here.

However in the spirit of making a good TR and sporting a bit of self-evaluations and photography the complete TR from my attempt last year, and my attempt this year, plus the route description, you can find it here.

I hope you enjoy/will find this useful. I hope this helps Doug Sr. !!

Hi SB,

Much preferred (enjoyed) the more loquacious version. Gives more "perspective".

Not sure what is "typical", but I "guess" that ~50% (or higher) of "first attempts" are not successful. Weather is always uncertain, and with first attempts the learning curve is steep. In your case I would think that both of your climbs were really "first attempts". Two different routes, and the second with no boot tracks to give you any ideas.

Last year I also spoke with Doug about his "variation", but though he indicated starting up the "middle" route, and then moving over to what you show as "variation #2". I may have misunderstood, but at least on the map it looks reasonable.

No doubt you will be back, and will attain the summit.

Again, most entertaining.

Hi Looking at the picture the blue line works as one option to just above the lower waterfall above LBSL, or you can stay on the easy approach to UBSL and start the slog bypass just above the crossing and starting along the slabs about 100' up bear right at about 40 degrees and stay along (West side of the ridge) NOT THE summit ridge of Carillon but a lower sub ridge. I think it is the blue line on the map. This would be about 500' east of the sand/slog follow the slab/large rock route till you hit a head wall, turn west and this ramp takes you to the bowl and the exit of the sand slog.

So if you take a standard topo map look at the green area you will notice at the west end above LBSL , the west end of the green area notice a dog leg. Split this dog leg and head north westerly , the westerly edge of the ridge shows quite well on the topo although very faint depression on the map this route stays on class 2 easy walking, no use of hands the entire way to the Russel saddle.

What this route avoids is the distance to the start of the sand slog. You are gaining elevation as you near the saddle on slabs or solid footing. My experience this saves about 30 - 45 minutes and the treading sand, Also using this course it leaves no track in the sand. On the way down I use the upper part of the sand slog but bear more easterly to join on the slabs above LBSL.

Several people have used this route to avoid the sand so I think most experienced climbers would by route finding. Thanks Doug