|
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 353
Member
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 353 |
Congratulations Shin-san!Shin worked long and hard over several months to get this crack problem at Rockreation in Costa Mesa. Shin’s perseverance and determination paid off and climbed it clean for the first time on Nov 8. This is an impressive accomplishment, since many >5.12 gym climbers can’t get up this crack. There’s no consensus on the rating, but I’d say it’s 5.10c/d. I promised Shin a free dinner of his choice once he got up the crack, so now it’s my turn to pay up….which I’ll gladly do. Next, we got to get Shin out on some really rock. More pics at http://grahamcracker.smugmug.com/Category/Shin-on-Crack-Nov-27-2012/26795567_KCnKxb#!i=2243834319&k=mmwr27T
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 783
Member
|
Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 783 |
CONGRATULATIONS SHIN![size:14pt][/size]
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,447 Likes: 11
Member
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,447 Likes: 11 |
Shin has been talking about this problem for a while. Congrats on getting it done (again).
This list of free meals gets longer and longer.
Just remember you'll need to work them off.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 629
Member
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 629 |
Congrats Papa Proud of ya!!
I'm taking Shin to Josh on Dec 21st to do Gargoyle a 5.6 crack with no face cheating something tells me he will fly up it!!!
yeti
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 904
Member
|
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 904 |
You inspire me, Shin... Big time congrats!!! LOVE the photo! MC 
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 526 Likes: 2
BaldyMaster Member
|
BaldyMaster Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 526 Likes: 2 |
Hi Rick, I sincerely appreciate you very much for giving me this challenge this year. I couldn't have done it without your continuous guidance and encouragement for last several months. This challenge has been the most painful activity I have ever tried physically and mentally followed by the cross country hikes with Richard P. in 2010. I was inspired by your very high training ethic standard and dedication to improve your self by showing me your real action but not by words. All of us who associate with you have been influenced very much by you and your conducts but they may be too polite to tell you openly. Your friends at rock gym have been very kind and helpful and I learned a lot from them,too. Thank you very much for this opportunity. I'll take upon your next challenge.
Last edited by Shin; 11/30/12 04:19 PM.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,447 Likes: 11
Member
|
Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 5,447 Likes: 11 |
BY THE WAY: ANOTHER MILESTONE FOR SHIN IS HAPPENING ON 15 DECEMBER STARTING FROM MANKER FLAT... DON'T KNOW WHAT TIME... SOMEONE IN THE KNOW SHOULD LET THE REST OF US KNOW...
(Been reading a bunch of naval messages this morning... they sure are hard to read because of all caps.)
|
|
|
|
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 696
Member
|
Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 696 |
Shin,
Congratulations on taming that crack. Your climbing skills are fun to watch. Jeff and Rick will find more challenges.
Richard, I think I know what's going on December 15th. That might require more free food at the lodge!
J
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 202
Member
|
Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 202 |
As a relatively new rock climber myself, I can appreciate the pain, Shin. I climb a couple of days a week at Rock City in Anaheim. That crack on the right took me a couple of months to really get. I haven't done the one at Rockreation. I'll have to go give it a whirl.
Last week we were on Oahu. As we walked onto the Waimea (sp?) bay beach, I saw a gorgeous bouldering lava wall with chalk marks all over it. Climbing crack inside is painful fun, but climbing outside? Painful nirvana. Need more crack!!! Glad to hear you have caught a healthy crack addiction.
|
|
|
|
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 538
Member
|
Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 538 |
Congrats Shin!! Way To Go....
mark
|
|
|
|
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 298
Member
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 298 |
Awesome, Shin! Great training and problem solving for the exit crack on the East Face.  Why just hike Whitney?... might be time for you to climb it!!!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 202
Member
|
Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 202 |
I haven't been to Rockreation in a while, so I went over today and gave that crack a shot. Yikes. Wicked crack. For a while during the first third, the crack is side enough it feels like you need stacked hands but there's no place to levitate. Then I got up higher and found no hands and no feet, all while leaning back. I got stymied with about 7 feet to go. Hat's off to you, Shin. Climbing that crack is a real accomplishment. I'll have to head back again another day. After I get a little more skin back on the backs of my hands ;-)
Brent N
|
|
|
|
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 526 Likes: 2
BaldyMaster Member
|
BaldyMaster Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 526 Likes: 2 |
Hi Brent, That crack is full of pains!! I spent one month to go up one foot on last 7 foot section. My hands,feet,tows,and arms were shot many times over last several months. Especially, the skin on hands got most damage and it took a week to heal every time before you can try it again. It took me several months before my brain and body parts working together. Please come by Tuesday and Thursday night so you can get a good information about the crack from Rick.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 202
Member
|
Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 202 |
You are right. I have at least a week of healing or so, but I'll try to find a time on a Tuesday or Thursday night to climbing with you guys. With four kids, night times are usually centered around homework, but maybe during the Christmas break. . .
Again, congrats. I felt pretty good about getting myself up to the last 7 feet to go, but I don't have the skill set yet to get through that last 7 feet. I couldn't get any feet in the crack on that thin section and had minimal purchase places for fingers--all on a negative grade. Cool problem!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 904
Member
|
Member
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 904 |
Best. Climbing Gym. Pic. Ever. Congrats on an amazing feat, SHIN!
|
|
|
|
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3
Member
|
Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3 |
Shin! Awesome work, man. Crack is where it's at. Wish I could make your Baldy celebration mid-december, but we've got an ice trip planned already.
|
|
|
|
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 202
Member
|
Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 202 |
Shin and Richard Grahm, it was awesome running into you at Rockreation. Thanks again for the generous sharing of beta. It made all the difference. I have more work to do to send that crack, but you got me up to the top which is farther than I got the first time I tried that crack. Richard, watching you levitate up that thing was amazing. Shin, if you are looking for my hand jammies, here is the link from Climb X http://climbxgear.com/crackgloves.aspxClimb on!
|
|
|
|
|