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#93475 11/29/12 04:56 PM
Joined: Oct 2005
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Congratulations Shin-san!
Shin worked long and hard over several months to get this crack problem at Rockreation in Costa Mesa.
Shin’s perseverance and determination paid off and climbed it clean for the first time on Nov 8.
This is an impressive accomplishment, since many >5.12 gym climbers can’t get up this crack.
There’s no consensus on the rating, but I’d say it’s 5.10c/d.

I promised Shin a free dinner of his choice once he got up the crack, so now it’s my turn to pay up….which I’ll gladly do.

Next, we got to get Shin out on some really rock.

More pics at
http://grahamcracker.smugmug.com/Category/Shin-on-Crack-Nov-27-2012/26795567_KCnKxb#!i=2243834319&k=mmwr27T

graham #93476 11/29/12 06:30 PM
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CONGRATULATIONS SHIN![size:14pt][/size]

Tracie B #93477 11/29/12 06:39 PM
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Shin has been talking about this problem for a while. Congrats on getting it done (again).

This list of free meals gets longer and longer.

Just remember you'll need to work them off.

Richard P. #93478 11/29/12 07:07 PM
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Congrats Papa Proud of ya!!

I'm taking Shin to Josh on Dec 21st to do Gargoyle a 5.6 crack with no face cheating something tells me he will fly up it!!!

yeti

graham #93480 11/30/12 07:51 AM
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You inspire me, Shin... Big time congrats!!! LOVE the photo!

MC smile


"The mountains are measured for their height but the achievements of one who climbs the mountains are immeasurable." m.c.
http://www.facebook.com/keepclimbing
graham #93481 11/30/12 03:11 PM
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Hi Rick,
I sincerely appreciate you very much for giving me this challenge this year. I couldn't have done it without your continuous guidance and encouragement for last several months. This challenge has been the most painful activity I have ever tried physically and mentally followed by the cross country hikes with Richard P. in 2010. I was inspired by your very high training ethic standard and dedication to improve your self by showing me your real action but not by words. All of us who associate with you have been influenced very much by you and your conducts but they may be too polite to tell you openly. Your friends at rock gym have been very kind and helpful and I learned a lot from them,too.
Thank you very much for this opportunity.
I'll take upon your next challenge.

Last edited by Shin; 11/30/12 04:19 PM.
Shin #93483 11/30/12 04:36 PM
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BY THE WAY: ANOTHER MILESTONE FOR SHIN IS HAPPENING ON 15 DECEMBER STARTING FROM MANKER FLAT... DON'T KNOW WHAT TIME... SOMEONE IN THE KNOW SHOULD LET THE REST OF US KNOW...

(Been reading a bunch of naval messages this morning... they sure are hard to read because of all caps.)

graham #93485 11/30/12 05:13 PM
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Shin,

Congratulations on taming that crack. Your climbing skills are fun to watch. Jeff and Rick will find more challenges.

Richard, I think I know what's going on December 15th. That might require more free food at the lodge!

J

JamesL #93503 11/30/12 11:14 PM
Joined: Apr 2008
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As a relatively new rock climber myself, I can appreciate the pain, Shin. I climb a couple of days a week at Rock City in Anaheim. That crack on the right took me a couple of months to really get. I haven't done the one at Rockreation. I'll have to go give it a whirl.

Last week we were on Oahu. As we walked onto the Waimea (sp?) bay beach, I saw a gorgeous bouldering lava wall with chalk marks all over it. Climbing crack inside is painful fun, but climbing outside? Painful nirvana. Need more crack!!! Glad to hear you have caught a healthy crack addiction.

graham #93506 12/01/12 01:01 AM
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Congrats Shin!! Way To Go....

mark

So.BayMark #93507 12/01/12 03:33 AM
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Awesome, Shin! Great training and problem solving for the exit crack on the East Face. smile Why just hike Whitney?... might be time for you to climb it!!!

Brent N #93524 12/02/12 04:04 AM
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I haven't been to Rockreation in a while, so I went over today and gave that crack a shot. Yikes. Wicked crack. For a while during the first third, the crack is side enough it feels like you need stacked hands but there's no place to levitate. Then I got up higher and found no hands and no feet, all while leaning back. I got stymied with about 7 feet to go. Hat's off to you, Shin. Climbing that crack is a real accomplishment. I'll have to head back again another day. After I get a little more skin back on the backs of my hands ;-)

Brent N

Brent N #93537 12/02/12 04:11 PM
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Hi Brent,
That crack is full of pains!! I spent one month to go up one foot on last 7 foot section. My hands,feet,tows,and arms were shot many times over last several months. Especially, the skin on hands got most damage and it took a week to heal every time before you can try it again. It took me several months before my brain and body parts working together. Please come by Tuesday and Thursday night so you can get a good information about the crack from Rick.

Shin #93567 12/03/12 05:50 PM
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You are right. I have at least a week of healing or so, but I'll try to find a time on a Tuesday or Thursday night to climbing with you guys. With four kids, night times are usually centered around homework, but maybe during the Christmas break. . .

Again, congrats. I felt pretty good about getting myself up to the last 7 feet to go, but I don't have the skill set yet to get through that last 7 feet. I couldn't get any feet in the crack on that thin section and had minimal purchase places for fingers--all on a negative grade. Cool problem!

graham #93579 12/04/12 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted By graham


Best. Climbing Gym. Pic. Ever.

Congrats on an amazing feat, SHIN!


"The mountains are measured for their height but the achievements of one who climbs the mountains are immeasurable." m.c.
http://www.facebook.com/keepclimbing
graham #93588 12/04/12 07:00 AM
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Shin! Awesome work, man. Crack is where it's at. Wish I could make your Baldy celebration mid-december, but we've got an ice trip planned already.

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Shin and Richard Grahm, it was awesome running into you at Rockreation. Thanks again for the generous sharing of beta. It made all the difference. I have more work to do to send that crack, but you got me up to the top which is farther than I got the first time I tried that crack. Richard, watching you levitate up that thing was amazing.

Shin, if you are looking for my hand jammies, here is the link from Climb X

http://climbxgear.com/crackgloves.aspx

Climb on!



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