Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Climbing the Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite

Hey All... I just spent 4 days last week climbing the Lost Arrow Spire in Yosemite. I thought some of you might be interested in seeing some photos from climbing this amazing formation. The climb ends with a 140' Tyrolean traverse off the spire. Here are a few below plus a video of the traverse. The entire photo gallery can be seen here: The Lost Arrow Spire September 27-30, 2011


The Lost Arrow Spire is the finger of rock in the center of the photo. That's Yosemite Falls to the left. It's amazing to see it still running in October!



My partners Skiy and Amanda loaded up and ready to approach the spire.



Amanda leading a pitch on day 1.



Yours truly leading a pitch on day 2.



Arms length self portrait on a ledge the morning of day 3.



Skiy with our haul bags.



Amanda negotiating an overhung section of the route.



Skiy enjoying leading pitch #14 on day 4.



View looking down while I ascended the final pitch that led the the Tyrolean traverse.



Rigging the anchor for the Tyrolean traverse.



Amanda on the Tyrolean traverse.
[img]http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.com/Si...L/DSC1708-L.jpg[/img]


The view looking down in the middle of the Tyrolean traverse.
[img]http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.com/Si...L/DSC1748-L.jpg[/img]


***Video*** If you click on this picture it will bring up a video of Skiy doing the Tyrolean traverse. If it is slow to load you can click different smaller sizes at the top of the video.
[img]http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.c...665-L.jpg[/img]
***Video*** Above

The team pauses for a photo on the descent with our route behind.
[img]http://www.kurtwedbergphotography.com/Si.../DSC1893-XL.jpg[/img]

Outstanding report. What a great climb.

Brent N

I can do that... NOT!

Thanks for sharing this classic climb, Kurt. Best wishes, Harvey

Wow--big congrats, Kurt! Don't think I'll be doing that traverse anytime soon.

I always admired those mtn climbers with their skill and guts.However, i have no interest in partaking in that activity.Too much vertigo and, insane in the membrain!As for the tyrolean traverse,yeah sure-piece o cake ...no problemo.

Congrats Kurt, that is an amazing looking climb! It looks like a lot of fun and I got an endorphin rush just reading the TR!

I've seen many photos of climbers standing atop Lost Arrow. If you're climbing up the north wall of Yosemite, just how does the first climber reach Lost Arrow? Is there a permanent rope line anchored atop Lost Arrow so others can establish their own Tyrolean traverse line?

Well done!

You get to the top of the Lost Arrow Spire by climbing it from the notch in between the Spire and the main wall. You attach a rope to an anchor on the main face then as you climb the Lost Arrow you bring the other end of the rope with you and secure it to an anchor on top of the Spire. Here's a picture of our anchor shortly before I did the traverse:

Wow If I were 30 years younger I would like to try it but now I have just as much fun viewing the pics cause it's so far beyond my limitations!!! Very cool photos and video of that Tyrolean Traverse. thanks for sharing!

The movie Cliffhanger and the opening scene was enough to prevent me from ever wanting to do a Tyrolean Traverse anywhere, but I admire anyone who has the skill and courage to do one.

Kurt, did you get hit with the typical nightly winds howling up there?

It sounds like you've been there . Yes we had winds every night. They started after sundown and stopped after sunrise. The only time we had winds during the daytime was on the final day during the Tyrolean traverse. Here's a picture of our ropes getting blown by the wind:

Kurt,

Great pictures and nice report, thanks for sharing!

Did you climb Elbrus?

Yes I've been guiding trips there since 2000. Here are a few photo galleries from Mt. Elbrus climbs.

Sure would like to get to Elbrus one day myself.

The mountain was closed to climbing all spring and summer this year due to terrorist attacks in the Baskin Valley.

You can get updates here:

http://www.summitpost.org/phpBB3/elbrus-2011-t56289-15.html

http://www.facebook.com/ElbrusRace

John

Yes it was closed. We decided not to go this past summer. I know some people did get in there though. We plan to go back next summer and will do an alternate route. It'll be a great time!