The shower at the Portal Store was operable when we were there in Sept. I think it's open whenever the Store is open (9 a.m. to 6 p.m. in Oct. according to this website), as long as it's not down for repairs. Doug told me some funny stories about the many ways people have found to break the shower, often requiring him to have to order parts or supplies from out of town. If it's not working when you come off the mountain, try the barber shop in Lone Pine. They charge more than Doug, but probably it would be worth it.
