When are you planning to do it? If not till late May/mid June, you might consider a couple of alternate routes to Avalanche Gulch. Hotlum\Bolam Ridge
shasta routes is an excellant climb with some steeper slopes than A. G. Hotlum\Wintun Ridge is another excellant route.
Hotlum-Wintun Depending on ability, ropes can be useful on H. B., but are not needed on the H.W. route. These have a lot less traffic than A. Gulch and are worth the effort. The only problem is the trail heads may not be reachable till mid June,earlier if you are lucky. Call the Fifth Seasons climbing report when you get close to goin. 530-926-5555 or 530-926-3606