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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 15
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 15
We are planning on doing the Mountaineer's route this weekend, and from all accounts on this board it looks like the weather will be dry. Two of the people in our party do not have ice axes or crampons, however they can rent them if need be.

My question is, do you think they will be necessary for this particular weekend given recent conditions and projected weather? The guidebook recommends carrying them year-round for this route, however what are the chances that we actually need them? Someone mentioned being able to skirt around the ice that is in the gulley right now.

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 337
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 337
I was up there last weekend. No need for ice axe or crampons. If it snows, cancel; too dangerous and a miserable slog to boot.

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 66
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 66
I was up there last weekend. Weather has been very warm during the day. You can run into a little ice up above the notch anytime of year but you can usually go around it. Daytime high temperatures are staying nice and pleasant up there...about 60 at Iceberg lake.

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 21
rhl
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 21
Im with steve, no need for crampons or a ax this late.
and if you are leaving in the am , and you cant see any starts wait!
this time of the year is when the serrias show that they have a set

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 66
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 66
I guess I forgot the main point. I would not take crampons/ ice axe unless it was winter conditions...on into late spring. Certainly there is none of that in the immediate forecast. Certainly you will see some frozen waterfalls early in the morning....but no real snow yet. Leave the crampons/ ice axe home. It is still mostly dry up there.

Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 100
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 100
Helmet,helmet,helmet

Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 247
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Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 247
I second spiderman. Other then a good trail description and pictures to know were you are, a helmit may be the best invested safety gear. As mention in the Mountaineers route photos Oct 27-28 rockfall is all too common above Iceberg lake in the colouir and chute above the notch...maybe unavoidable. A post back in late August, Kashcraft talked about getting hit by a rock knocked loose by a climber above, as it bounced off another rock and changed direction. Some do without the helmit...but that is taking a real chance.


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