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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5
Hi guys,
My friends and I are planning to climb east face on May, 21-22.
But we're worried about the snow condition on this route. We know some people climbed east buttress on May 30, but east face has more large edges, which will hold snow. And each year, snow condition varies.
Anyway, we didn't find too much information, except the ranger in information office told us it'll still be winter condition at that time.
I hope to get some help here.

Appreciate and best wishes,
george

Joined: Jun 2005
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Joined: Jun 2005
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You'll most likely have snow on the Washboards and in the Grand Staircase. There are also some other pocketed areas where snow lingers. When I am on the East Face of Whitney early season I prefer a mountain boot versus climbing shoes. You don't get as much friction on the slabs but it makes the rest of the ascent easier. The boots also help with the descent down the Mountaineer's Route which will still have a lot of snow. Depending on the time of day and conditions you may need crampons to safely descend it.



Kurt Wedberg
info@sierramountaineering.com
http://www.sierramountaineering.com
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5
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Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 5
Originally Posted By Kurt Wedberg
You'll most likely have snow on the Washboards and in the Grand Staircase. There are also some other pocketed areas where snow lingers. When I am on the East Face of Whitney early season I prefer a mountain boot versus climbing shoes. You don't get as much friction on the slabs but it makes the rest of the ascent easier. The boots also help with the descent down the Mountaineer's Route which will still have a lot of snow. Depending on the time of day and conditions you may need crampons to safely descend it.


Thank you for your information Kurt. I found some photos from 2010 and 2009, they shew that washboard was covered by snow at late May. We decide to add an alternative route, or say change the route to East Buttress. At least, there's not too much snow on there according to the webcam.
By the way, I saw photos of you on Sierradecent, climbing east face.

Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1,006
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Yes the East Buttress is a better choice of routes for an early season climb. It will have snow in spots but quite a bit less than the East Face will. The Buttress is similar in difficulty but a little more sustained. Both are excellent routes and well worth doing smile


Kurt Wedberg
info@sierramountaineering.com
http://www.sierramountaineering.com

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