Mt. Whitney Portal Store & Hostel Forums General Mt. Whitney Portal Store Message Board Mt Russell

Hi,

I have an aug. 5 permit for the north fork, and am planning on trying the east ridge of russell (again). I was wondering if anyone has been up there recently, and whether there's any snow left on the ridge. don't suspect there is, but it doesn't hurt to ask.

Also, from a trip report I saw online, to get to the west summit, this pair of climbers dropped down off the the ridge between the east and west summits, and continued to the west summit. When they got to the west summit, they walked around to its west side to get to the summit block. all the other trip reports I've seen just say the east to west summit traverse is much easier than getting to the east summit. No real details, though I guess maybe it's pretty obvious once you do get to the east summit. Is this anyone else's experience?

Can't wait to get down there. Looking forward to some blueberry pie at the Alabama.

Thanks

I haven't been on the East Ridge of Russell since the first part of June. I'm actually writing this from the Moscow airport awaiting a flight home after guiding a climb of Mt. Elbrus. I'll still confidently say you won't have any snow to contend with.

The route description of traversing between the East and West summits of Russell is pretty accurate. There is more than one way to go but in general if you have decent route finding ability and follow your nose using that description it should get you there. There are some 3rd class moves on it now matter how you go.

Here's a picture taken from the East summit looking towards the West summit. The rest of the pictures from my last climb there are here: East Ridge of Mt. Russell June 5-6, 2010. The traverse between the two summits starts picture #211.

Thanks Kurt,

That's a great pic, and thanks for sending it from moscow airport. Hope the climb of Elbrus went as planned. I can kind of see the line/ledge that looks like it wraps around the summit. Though it does look like a frontal assault from the east is doable as well for a class 3 guy like myself.

By the way, the Mt Abbott trip with Chris was a blast. He kept a nice easy pace throughout. I never felt that winded, or like I needed to keep up. Challenging, but great fun and outstanding views. Great choice of mountains. Probably sign up for another climb in the future. Russell would be great but none on your schedule. Something in the Palisades maybe.

As far as snow on Russell, I didn't think there'd be any on the ridge that would cause problems. A friend of mine who was going to go wanted to bring his ice axe and crampons, but I told him needless weight right now. He can't make it anyway as it turns out. He tried a summit of rainier with RMI on the 16th, but got only as far as Muir Camp. His knees were shot from the mixed climbing with crampons among other things. He's already signed up with another guide service for a climb in september.

Needless to say, I'm going Hans Solo on the russell trip unless I can find someone on this website who wants to go. I'm stopping in bishop on the way down to pick up another helmet from wilson's, so if I remember, I'll stop in and say hello.

Thanks for the info

I would go in a second if I could get time off. The east ridge and south face-right side are on the top of my list. Have a great climb. Post pictures when you get back.

Mt. Russell, 7-30-10

Jeff and I ascended the south face, right side, descended the east ridge. IMHO, and in respectful disagreement with Bob, the south face is good for nothing other than a quick descent when a storm comes in on your head. East ridge = YUM. No snow, plenty of polemonium and alpine gold to mark the way. Enjoy!

Now, I just need to get my climbing skillz up to snuff so I can play on the Fishhook Arete with someone...

Ah, grasshopper, seek not to know the answers, but to understand the questions.

+1, Bob.

Laura:

I agree with your comment on the South Face vs. the East Ridge. However, the South Face also comes in handy when you're camped at Iceberg Lake to climb Whitney.

If I ever get motivated enough to get my leading skills back where they used to be, I just might invite you to play on the Fishhook. It deserves its reputation as a classic.

Bob

Yeah JamesL, when I got the permit they were already filling up for the north fork and aug 5 was all I could get. Too bad it's during the week. It really makes it hard to find a climbing partner. Still looking though.

Thanks for info on the south face. It looks like the south face is a popular descent after doing the east ridge. Looks like class 4 though, so I won't be going that way. Though some would argue that there's some class 4 exposure on the east ridge. One of the regulars there though told me that one of the exposed sections is actually class 2. Essentially, you could walk across it, no climbing.

Just as an addendum, I would highly recommend bypassing as much of the sand before the col by taking the slabs/blocks in the blue line:



Quite a bit of fun 3rd class gain (with many solutions).

Bob, I would be honored. Thanks for the offer!

Well, it looks my climbing partner can make the trip afterall, so I won't be going solo, or have to give up half a permit.

I did the scree slog up to the russell plateau last year. Maybe the hardest part of the climb. Does anyone have any experience with the route at the end of the canyon above upper boyscout lake? How does it compare with the route out of clyde meadow for getting to the plateau?

We watched some poor soul slog up that scree chute as we traversed the scree over to Sakai Col. Operative word being scree. Everywhere.

There's just no escaping the slog...




That is, unless you come from the north via either the north ridge or up to R-C Col from Tulainyo Lake.

But really, the east ridge is so choice, in my mind it's worth it. Plus it's one hell of a screamer descent back to Clyde Meadow.

I have no interest in discussing whether one route or another is better or worse in the absolute sense. I believe that all routes in these beloved mountains have special and unique things to offer, and all are to be cherished in one way or another. Perhaps some more cherished than others, and that is a personal thing. Much depends on the conditions, and with whom you are climbing. Is it with a new acquaintance on Thor Peak, or a long-time friend you have escaped death with on Denali or Mt. Logan?

Clyde, Muir, Versteeg, and King extolled the Sierra rather than denigrating it. I fall more in their camp.

When I first started climbing in the '50s, I detested scree slopes and sand slogs. Now, decades later, I am much better at it--having discovered the art of finesse as opposed to fight. There are secrets to be learned, such as knowing where to go and where and how to step. With someone new, I often find myself saying "You're doing it all wrong! Watch where I'm going, and step where and how I step." And it helps them a lot.

I can go up the sand/scree area to Sakai Col like it was a maintained trail, and from there up the south face like climbing nice stairs. I'm sorry others find it so difficult.

Excellent. I will print this out and read it to my papa, as I never had a good explanation for him as to how it was that I could answer, "Yes, Papa, I had a g-g-g-great t-t-t-time on the sk-sk-ski trail!!" as the icicles fell from my hair, and my gloves crunched when touched them. I could only remember the beauty of the experience (discounting the time I got frostbite)

Thanks MooseTracks,

That's what I thought. I've heard of the Rockwell Variation in Secor or from trip reports on SummitPost, so that's why I asked. But you're right, we'll probably have to slog our way up either way we go. And I agree, though we only got partway up the east ridge last year, it was well worth the slog up, and of course, scree surfing back down was much, much easier.

Last week we took the normal route from Upper Boy Scout Lake and it wasn't bad at all. Certainly not like Joe Devel!

No snow on the ridge. Carillon was nice, too.

Hey, if it were easy everybody would be doing it; then think about how tough it would be to get a permit.
Be ever thankful for thy talus.

rruby, imo, it helps to angle right (northeast) a bit from the main scree chute between upper boy scout lake and the russell/carillon saddle. makes for a rockier, more pleasant ascent.