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#105949 - 03/07/24 10:07 AM Re: Conditions On Baldy [Re: Shin]
Edw Offline
Member

Registered: 01/21/23
Posts: 17
Loc: United States
A great warning, so well-written and detailed. I was particularly impressed by the way you pointed out that while ice axe and crampons are important, there are conditions where they don't penetrate. I think many people do not realize it until they experience it.

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#105965 - 03/08/24 04:12 PM Re: Conditions On Baldy [Re: Edw]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Another great report from Shin. The ice Shin called out can be rock hard sometimes call blue ice ,ax will bounce off crampons will not catch a grip,the often fatal accidents on the mountaineers route on Whitney holds ice like this say first 50-10 feet of the easy walk off.
When the easy walk off was coined we were
in a very long drought cycle and the route looked like a way get non climbers to reach the summit.
Thanks Shin for another detailed report.


Edited by Doug Sr (03/08/24 04:13 PM)

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#105989 - 03/18/24 08:22 AM Re: Conditions On Baldy [Re: Doug Sr]
Shin Offline
BaldyMaster
Member

Registered: 10/10/09
Posts: 508
Loc: Seal Beach
The conditions of Baldy bowl/Ski hut trail are still Alpine condition. Snow was very icy even below Ski hut starting 7500 ft.
There were several teams of climbers were in Procrastination chute very early in the morning. Wind was very strong in the bowl. All tracks from Ski hut to the summit from last week were wiped out by fresh snow and new track was established along summer trail to the west ridge. 8700 ft above to the summit was still covered 3-5 feet of hard-packed snow. The slope exposed with consistent strong wind was blue ice covered with a few inches of fresh snow. All winter gears, crampons, ice axe, helmet, good jacket, gloves were must. SAR operation or operations were underway, and two helicopters were hovering for a few hours in canyons and ridges. There were many SAR members at Ski hut. According to some SAR members, the hiker was rescued but no details.
All climbers came down from the summit were very well prepared for the conditions. There were some ill-prepared hikers but most of them didn't hike beyond Ski hut. The snow condition of this season will be very challenging/dangerous for some time.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/9Ej6T15q4Y9c66za6

Have a great and safe hike.

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#106043 - 04/18/24 06:49 AM Re: Conditions On Baldy [Re: Shin]
Shin Offline
BaldyMaster
Member

Registered: 10/10/09
Posts: 508
Loc: Seal Beach
After 4 weekends of poor weather with snow, rain, and strong winds, Mt. Baldy got a decent spring hiking season. But there is still heavy with 3–5-foot-deep snow beyond Ski hut.
The summer trail is dry to 7500 ft. The deep gully around 7900 ft with snow and exposed dirt needs some attention to cross. Some part of trail is covered with blown off tree branches and leaves and make it a bit hard to read the mixed of winter and summer trail. There is sizable snow bridge below Ski hut.
The trail to the summit was established along the summer trail.
Good traction gears and trekking poles with snow basket are helpful.

There weren't any visible tracks in the bowl. There was a visible long snow slide, a large area was slid down, and traces of rock falls. We met a team of climbers on the way down, one looked experienced and other with micro spike and trekking poles and ice axe without skill, started 1:00 a.m. to climb one of the chutes. Why?
Snow in springtime is very unstable.

Snow is melting very fast, and the trail conditions will change every hour. There were many deep voids near trees, bushes, and rocks.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/xXuo9vca53gy9wXY6

Have a great hike.

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#106044 - 04/19/24 12:13 PM Re: Conditions On Baldy [Re: Shin]
Brent N Offline
Member

Registered: 04/21/08
Posts: 200
Loc: Orange County
Shin, your reports are always invaluable. I hope to see you tomorrow.

Brent N

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#106066 - 04/25/24 07:06 AM Re: Conditions On Baldy [Re: Brent N]
Shin Offline
BaldyMaster
Member

Registered: 10/10/09
Posts: 508
Loc: Seal Beach
Hi Brent N., thank you for your kind words.

I got out of shape lately, so I joined hiking with my friends who are training for Sierra season and trekking in overseas trail. I hiked 04/21/2024 and 04/24/2024. The snow conditions have changed significantly, much less snow in the bowl on 24th.

Ski hut trail is almost dry to 8000 feet. 3-5-foot-deep snow to the summit still. There were many exposed rocks and scree fields in the bowl now. We climbed up Zeke' chute on 21st with good conditions. We went up regular trail on 24th.

I heard from Brent (5xBaldy hiker) on 24th that there were 2 hikers got injured badly on arms and shoulders almost same time on Tuesday, one by slipped off around 9000 feet down over the trail passed over the trail in Rock Garden and other one glissading down on the same route. Brent provided all emergency assistance and contacted the authority. (I don't know any more details.)

I provided the bowl conditions of 21st, Sunday, to one hiker on Tuesday night. His group was considering going up the bowl.
This was my reply to him.
"Most on the bowl is covered with solid snow. Ice axe went in 12-15 inches deep in the snow 8300-9000 feet. 6 inches beyond 9000, 12-15 near the mouth of the bowl. Some area around 9300 feet had very thin snow and rocks are showing up......"
The snow conditions are changed by the terrain below and elevation by the weather.
White covered slope isn't covered evenly with same amount of snow. Blue ice was exposed on some area of upper part of the bowl.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/KcAhW6yUE4ZZKssT9

Have a safe hike.

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#106073 - Today at 06:46 AM Re: Conditions On Baldy [Re: Shin]
Shin Offline
BaldyMaster
Member

Registered: 10/10/09
Posts: 508
Loc: Seal Beach
Snow on Mt. Baldy is getting thin fast especially in the bowl.
This maybe the last weekend for bowl climbing.
West side (left hand side most) of bowl and 3 pin alleys (right hand side most) has still good amount of snow left. We took a long snow band of right side of Schitzo alley and upper section of 3 pin alleys. The slope was covered with slushy snow with 4-7 inches deep on top of hard packed old snow. Some areas were solid blue ice, screes, rocks underneath.
A common ice axe with spade shaped tip didn't penetrate into the icy slope well. The old-fashioned ice axe with spear shaped worked very well and provided the best performance and security. The gear selection is very important for safty.

The trail is dry most of part to Ski hut. The creek beyond Ski hut is still under the snow. There is 3-5-foot-deep snow from Ski hut to the summit.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4soNZ8BzthG8p2yW7

Have a safe hike.

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