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#105764 - 09/06/23 09:51 AM High Sierra Trail Aug 30-Sep 3, 2023
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
A variety of conditions were encountered on this trans Sierra adventure from the Tallest Trees to the Highest Mountain.

Wed Aug 30: In the late afternoon, left the massive redwoods in Crescent Meadow and camped at Mehrten Creek, keeping a watchful eye on the growing Redwood Meadow Fire a few miles away.

Thurs Aug 31: Encountered intermittent light smoke en route to campsite at Precipice Lake (still mostly frozen). Slept under clear skies and an incredible full moon.

Fri Sep 1: Leaving Precipice Lake, there was no longer evidence of smoke, but the skies were unexpectedly covered by clouds in all directions (which was not in the forecast). Snow was not an issue getting to the Kaweah Gap, and I easily walked across Big Arroyo Creek down below. Unfortunately, the roof of the historic Big Arroyo Patrol Cabin had collapsed during the harsh winter.
On the Chagoopa Plateau intermittent hail was encountered, as well the only person I would meet in two days: a trail runner headed in the opposite direction. He was clad in only a t shirt, shorts, and a running vest. His goal was to cover the High Sierra Trail in 21 hours. (The FKT is 15 hours, 47 minutes.)
Dropping 3000 feet into the Kern Canyon, I hastily headed up to the Kern Hot Springs to set up camp, as rain was soon to begin. Just past the impressive Chagoopa Falls, the bridge over the Kern showed signs of significant damage, but remained usable. Uncharacteristically, I was the only camper at the Kern Hot Springs. It rained on and off all night.

Sat Sep 2: When I arose, immediately it was noticed that the level of a nearby creek rose overnight (not a good sign for this hiker). The rain stopped and the skies started to clear. Later in the day, it would be evident that the passing storm had produced significant snowfall on Mt Whitney.
Continuing up the trail, I reached Whitney Creek by late morning. My assessment was that crossing of Whitney Creek in the Kern Canyon would pose an unacceptable risk for me. I took an early lunch break to organize my thoughts (ie "do a sanity check") and review my previously formulated Plan B: Follow the tumbling/cascading Whitney Creek up and out of the Kern Canyon.
Extraction from the phenomenally deep Kern Canyon involved a 2600 foot elevation gain. Navigation was facilitated by knowing a few key landmarks and the use of map and compass. When most of the elevation gain had been done, I safely crossed Whitney Creek a couple hundred yards below the Packers Camp. (Two tents were set up there, but no one one was home.) I then followed the horse trail a mile to the PCT at Crabtree Meadow. Back on an established trails, I reached a crowded campground just off the JMT near the Crabtree Ranger Station. Camp was set up there with a stunning view of Mt Whitney. The Highest Mountain was coated in new snow.

Sun Sep 3: This was a windy day (on the east side of the Crest) and the skies remained clear. The trail was predominantly covered in new snow from Trail Crest to the Summit and then back down to the Cables. Most hikers used micro spikes. Much of the Cables passage was covered in thick ice.
In the dark at Lone Pine Lake, I encountered a young lady who had day hiked to the Summit, but whose headlamp batteries had died and had no replacements. Her two hiking partners (also from Washington DC) had turned around earlier due to altitude sickness. Using my light source, I escorted the hiker down to the parking lot.
Of course, the lady who hiked down with me had the keys to their car parked across from the Whitney Portal Store! When we reached the closed Store, she rejoined her colleagues who were waiting in the dark on the porch. I heard about a wonderful encounter the two waiting hikers had at the Store earlier in the evening with Doug Sr. The three apparently had a lengthy discussion on hiking the Mountain and the two ladies were thrilled when Doug Sr gave them a copy of his book.
The three hikers from Washington DC were looking forward to their next adventure on Mt Whitney and graciously gave me a ride down to Lone Pine.

Fall colors on the Mountain are just around the corner. Can't wait!

Jim

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#105765 - 09/09/23 08:01 PM Re: High Sierra Trail Aug 30-Sep 3, 2023 [Re: Jim F]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Thanks Jim We talked with more coming over from the west ,cold last few nights and another system few inches of fresh last night above 12,500 and light rain a few time today ,heavy last night said around 2 3AM

This is why I suggest wait until near sunrise to start ,being at 13,000 feet high wind in the dark and a storm rolling over the crest hints at trouble.
Deep into the snacks and jacket season.
Wondering if rescues could be reduced or eliminated if guides could guide on the main trail,not advocating they sale permits but give a group the option to include a guide under their permit ,a member of the group .Also not as a porter but a person that guides .

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Moderator:  Bob R, Doug Sr 
Mt. Whitney Weather Links


White Mountain/
Barcroft Station

Elev 12,410’

Upper Tyndall Creek
Elev 11,441’

Crabtree Meadows
Elev 10,700’

Cottonwood Lakes
Elev 10,196’

Lone Pine
Elev. 3,727’

Hunter Mountain
Elev. 6,880’

Death Valley/
Furnace Creek

Elev. -193’