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#105199 - 04/03/23 06:04 PM Whitney - 2023
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA

I'd say there's a bit of snow up at the Portal...



Trailhead bathroom...



Overflow parking lot bathroom...



Typical boot track... The track cut through Ravine and the Trailhead Overnight Campgrounds (guess this was Doug's track...).



Meysan Trailhead...



Lots of rockfall on the road...



Mudslide or Avi... (Reminds me of a decade-Plus ago when there was an even bigger debris field across the road...)


As Doug told us, the gate at the bottom is locked (for good reasons). Getting up to the Portal was pretty trivial because of the good (snowshoe originally) track. I headed up the Main Trail track, which essentially went straight up the Carillon Creek drainage. I made it to about 9,000' on the MR... Next time up will be with snowshoes... I think a track could be run straight up the drainage from the turn-off, instead of wandering through the trees (holding back the insults I'd like to throw at the existing track...that petered out...probably due to snow and spin...I used a lot of S words...) There is a good track up/down the "Old Trail"...



The spindrift off of the crest was amazing...the wind was blowing down the canyon hard enough to slow progress at times...

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#105200 - 04/03/23 09:00 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Thanks Richard , yes I went up/down the Ravine area, a new guy in town had put in the track and it saves the last loop up the road. Road shows some more melt but once in the shade is slow going , I think by the road markers about 1- 1 1/2feet less. This weekend a warm spell may help but will only start the run off problems! Look at the snow holding look at the aqua duct look at the snow look at the .... , Look at the webcams that Jeff added and you can see the valley getting water now.

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#105201 - 04/04/23 03:45 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
I'm wondering what you think about opening...considering the damage on the road now and (more concerning) what's to come with the considerable melt off?

BTW: there have been a couple of CAT front loaders working the tracks down in our area...wondering whether they're BLM, or DWP? Last time up Indian Wells Canyon, nothing had been done there yet... If it's BLM. it's a pleasant surprise to see such fast action to clean up a major mess... (already had 1 cross-rut, high speed crash due to the damage)

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#105202 - 04/04/23 09:57 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
First I moved this to the top of the threads so the posts can be updated and easy to find,

Ok the main concerns are 1. If we have a long period of warm days (24 hours above 32) , light warm winds coming up canyon and no cloud cover. Heavy runoff
2. The south facing sides are melting out now Slopes and road surface , this allows for heat to transfer in the area and melt more area.( We at times will shovel 2-3' squares in the snow covered road about 7-10' apart and if the area gets sun will melt the snow between the holes we cut in a day).
3. Much of the upper elevation snow will be removed by sublimation over time. This process is slower than melt but saves the threat of flooding below.

Now all the above is working now as you can see from the pictures Richard posted Dry road in the south facing area , the signs at the Meysan Parking area are showing about 1- 1 1/2' less snow in the shaded area from my trip 2 weeks ago this is part sublimation and melt.

The major concerns are slides off the north facing areas holding snow also the south facing but they have already started to slide.
The melt has started, North Fork has a good flow now and the Carrilion creek is flowing strong . The North fork will be prime for snow bridges , so will tree and rock wells. ( side note on tree wells, first time I can recall the tree trunks held enough heat to keep the snow away from the base and acted like the drip line effect) .

When the main canyon runoff starts , this adds to the already lower run off plus the north fork and carrilon run off plus the lower canyon walls, Meysan canyon and at the lower elevation add the Lone Pine Peak runoff and several seasonal creeks that will flow into lone pine creek in the Lone Pine Campground area. Most likely the water will breach the road at Lone Pine Campground area (added problem the fire 2 years ago could bring debris into the flow and again plug the culverts ).

Notice during the construction of the Aquaduct most of Lone Pine Creek water was directed into the aquaduct, as all the creeks north, Water and Power working long days clearing out culverts and flooding the valley floor getting ready for the melt, Owens Lake will hold much of the run off but getting the water across the aquaduct and 395 could be a problem .I recall the 1969 flood. Olancha had some water problems and has already this spring ( that hints to 395 being closed or bypassed in several areas, see the flooding signs just south of Olancha near the 4 lane and another area about 10 miles south )

Well the good news is we have had one slide that stopped about 200' from the store and if we can weather the next 2-3 weeks without another slide taking out the store life will be great ( back part of the store was taken out during the 69 spring runoff and warm heavy rain, also took out the trailhead bathroom and much damage in the Sierra) Trial was move to the horse trail that is the now the main Whitney Trail .

The County clears the road to the overflow parking lot , FS clears around the pond and parking lots , both are overloaded with washed out roads, slides and getting ready for the run off. We might not be high on the list getting the road open , we are lucky that the road has some rocks but nothing yet that would need blasting and about the normal amount of rock fall over the winter, the area just past the lower gate had slid around late Dec and is normal for that area.

On the trail the first creek will run high this season , most likely above the rock hop , the water will be raging but not deep just wide say 50' plan for this crossing , next will be the area as you enter Outpost camp this will be a very wet area and could require walking in the water for several hundred feet like the old days , then the outlet of the waterfall , that stream will be very wide but not deep, outlet from Mirror lake the steps will be under water early season . Canyon above trailside Meadow will be very hard to climb/ either ice or soft snow ,this area most likely will be the turn around for many early season hikers.

I will post as we start to get near the road opening and the store opening.

I would suggest not doing the April hikes to miss the permit system. Conditions are very unstable and often during mild winters we experience fatal accidents during this transition period.

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#105203 - 04/04/23 11:14 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Strider Offline
Member

Registered: 08/02/14
Posts: 24
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Any update on getting the high resolution camera back up? Would be very nice to have with all this snow on the mountain!

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#105208 - 04/06/23 05:00 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Strider]
Jeff M Offline

Member

Registered: 12/21/02
Posts: 955
Loc: Rattlesnake Hill, CA
It's up and has been working for the last couple of weeks. Click on Webcam 1 at the top. We had to switch a few things on the back end, so you may be using a deprecated link. I'm going to put in weekly time-lapse videos soon, so that will help with planning also.

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#105212 - 04/07/23 04:54 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jeff M]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Did another hike up to the Portal today...
Significant melt (compared to last time) on the lower switchback (road). The snow was mushy on the way down, so the days of firm snow (other than morning) may be gone already...

Here's another pic of the WPS:




And the turnout in the afternoon:


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#105218 - 04/10/23 06:34 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Walked a little ways past the Portal today...
Snow is in terrible shape...postholing with snowshoes on...

Don't know whether to blame BC Skiers, or slides, but the tracks up the Old Trail area were destroyed. I backtracked and headed up the Carillon Creek track and then looped down the Old Trail area...

The "tunnel" under the road must be plugged because Carillon Creek was running down the road...one positive: it's taking out a lot of the snow...big areas of pavement showing...

Here are a couple of photos:


Snow sluffed off the WPS roof.



That's the Kitchen completely buried.


Don't know if I'll be heading back up any time soon...the snow seems to be mash potatoes with no consolidation at the first sign of warming...and not too happy about SH's messing up tracks that take a LOT of work to put in (and it wasn't even my work!)

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#105219 - 04/10/23 07:43 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


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Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Notice how fast the roof cleared from 4-7 to 4-10 this also means way hot/ way quick not good for the run off .

On the track I can't understand why people would like to post hole up to the waist, risk twisting a knee or ankle or worse. A track is set so we all use the same track ,that track becomes a trail, hard firm packed snow easy to walk in the track no post holing limited risk of injury.
I see the same pattern on Baldy . Oh well a long time friend has an saying do what you want you will anyway.

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#105220 - 04/13/23 09:21 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
cmili Offline
Member

Registered: 04/12/23
Posts: 1
Loc: CA
Has anyone been up in the last day or two? Know there have been some slides but would be curious to hear how things look now and how the top is looking with the warmer weather this week. If anyone has a trip report to share or any insight as to when things might be safer for skinning up, would be interested to hear!

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#105237 - 04/18/23 07:32 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
mpaul Offline
Member

Registered: 04/17/23
Posts: 1
Loc: NV
Anyone know the current conditions on the whitney portal road? Can it be biked?
Also, any update on MR conditions?
Thanks!

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#105238 - 04/18/23 07:46 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: mpaul]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Haven't been up there since the last trip a week ago...

When I was up there last, with a little hike-a-bike on the second switchback, you'd be able to ride up a ways past the turnout (top of 2nd switchback) towards the campgrounds...

I'm sure there's been plenty more melt, but rocks on the road is also a concern and will require dismounts...

There was a rider on an e-bike...I was jealous...

BTW: again, with a little hike-a-bike, Horseshoe Meadows Road would be a fun ride...early enough in the day, you might be able to stay on top of firm snow for some of the ride...(assuming a MTB)

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#105248 - 04/18/23 05:11 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Took a e bike ride to the just below the main campground .Bike brake keep locking up co turned around.Road is dry from the bottom gate to this area .The slide above the first switchback is a few rocks,mud and branches.
Lone Pine Campground will open 25 April ,Portal still a guess,first the county road crew and then the Forest Service can do the work they need to do.
I have talked with several groups doing the mountaineering route,all report slow going ,snow shoes and all the gear for winter travel.

Cooler today but temps picking up again.


It looks like much of lower elevation snow has cleared to about 7500 ft,above that deep snow.
Several weeks will clear snow mostly in the Portal some may remain in the shaded areas.For some not fimilar with the old days we would have snow behind the store till late June.Shovel out the doors to get in and open ,road around the pond would be deep snow till traffic would plow it out.
Guide groups going often now so a track should be in on the North Fork,snow bridges should start showing,don't blindly follow the creek as you are about 25 feet above the creek now.

Will update when we have a firm opening.

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#105253 - 04/20/23 11:16 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Marmot John Offline
Member

Registered: 04/12/23
Posts: 8
Loc: Earth
A video just got posted that recorded the entire trek up from the closure to portal just a few days ago. I see a couple rocks.

Mount Whitney Road Closure to Portal - Complete Hike April 14 2023 (4k - 10x Speed)

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#105254 - 04/20/23 11:19 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Marmot John]
Marmot John Offline
Member

Registered: 04/12/23
Posts: 8
Loc: Earth
oops I may have put the link in wrong. Trying again.


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#105255 - 04/20/23 04:37 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Marmot John]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Hey great work, like I posted glad you got the coverage , I didn't mention great ride down , took the bike to a shop today, they think it might be overheated motor plus the rear brakes . Going back up next Tuesday see were the snow level starts , I assume above the campground that section of road will clear if not already`, still the shaded areas will have snow for several more weeks.

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#105265 - 04/22/23 05:38 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Originally Posted By Doug Sr
Going back up next Tuesday see were the snow level starts , I assume above the campground that section of road will clear if not already`, still the shaded areas will have snow for several more weeks.


What time are you heading up? If I can get my wife to trade my single speed e-bike for her multi-speed, folding e-bike, I'd like to join you...

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#105266 - 04/22/23 09:03 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Bike is in the shop ,the thought about over heating might be the problem also the shop wants to bleed the brakes
So I will be traveling bipedal.I want to hit the road early in case the snow is soft the last section. Or I could go later and use show shoes? Thanks

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#105269 - 04/25/23 04:54 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Doug Sr]
Richard P. Offline
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Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA

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#105270 - 04/25/23 06:40 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Richard P.]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Doesn't show up very well in the photo above, but that's an Inyo County front loader working on the road down near the gate...

Here are a few more photos from a trip up to the Portal with Doug:




















A month ago this was 4' of snow...

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#105271 - 04/26/23 11:19 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Had a great walk up to the Portal yesterday with Richard, we shared some of the past adventures of this season so far. Meet several groups either going up or coming down . Reports of very deep snow and icy slopes , on the main trail one group would not do it without a rope and climbing experience .West side drifts and icy slopes.

Another slide within the last 2 weeks , could of covered the lower portion of the main trail. Snow level at the Portal 2-3 feet .

Road is closed so this will add 3.6 mikes to the trailhead and work on road may require you to wait to get pasts a work zone or the road could close for foot traffic. The NRT trail is dry to the Meysan Creek area , but last year we think the bridge was washed out so not an easy way to cross, also above this area is deep snow on a steep side slope with rockfall coming down often (I Don't think this is an option for safe travel.)

If you are not geared or experienced in winter mountaineering I would suggest come later in the season .

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#105278 - 04/30/23 07:07 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Ohikero Offline
Member

Registered: 04/27/23
Posts: 6
Loc: Ohio
First time poster, many time reader. Can't thank everyone enough for all the great posts over time regarding conditions, safety, and equipment recommendations.

So for those experienced with this much of a winter snowpack, what is your best guess as to the earliest the summit can be reached via the main trail without ice axe or crampons being needed? Taking my 14 year old daughter in late August and actually wondering if even that will be late enough...

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#105280 - 05/01/23 07:34 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Ohikero]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Thanks for the question,several areas of the main trail can have ice all year,the cable area,since the trail was cut into a water seep,north facing and solid rock often this area will have ice but can be crossed with caution,the n ext area is the last long switchback before trail crest early snow will get packed down and become ice,again can be crossed with care.
By mid July we will know how the main trail is melting out.This is the period when the shift is from the chute over to the 97 switchback.The chute is often turning to more ice than snow and rocks are showing through.A slip at this period most often will cause injury.
Last thought we have our first snow most often the third week of August ,this clears quickly but starts our winter cycle of a system about every 7-10 days,many systems pass with little or no moisture but can bring cold air into the area.

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#105286 - 05/01/23 02:45 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Ohikero Offline
Member

Registered: 04/27/23
Posts: 6
Loc: Ohio
Thanks--I have read about the cables, am prepared for that. We wouldn't try the chute, never glissaded, and Whitney sure is not the time to learn. Will check back in July and see how its going, but it sounds like it may well be iffy even in late August.

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#105288 - 05/01/23 04:36 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Foxrider Offline
Member

Registered: 04/29/23
Posts: 6
Loc: Hermosa Beach and Scottsdale
That answered my question too.

Thanks.
_________________________

"...this we do that others may live."

Foxrider

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#105321 - 05/09/23 06:48 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Foxrider]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Road opened late today. Gate before the trailhead still closed. Campground and store still closed.Very limited parking



NO AREA TO TURN A LARGE RV OR TRAILER AROUND this is a deadend road also your friends will park in the road and at times turning a car around will require great skill. cars must be parked clear of the traveled road, limited parking along the side of the road .

About 50 ' up the trail you will run into a snow bank. The trail is covered .About 300' walking towards the main wall will get you to a dry section of the trail this section is south facing and will be dry for a short distance once you turn into the shaded area the snow is solid .
Another problem is most are going up the North Fork ( mountaineers route) this is not the main whitney trail. The main trail crosses the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek . The mountaineers route truns up the canyon just before crossing the NF Lone Pine creek.

The long list of what to expect /gear and conditions are changing daily . Until the trail melts out ,we have the run off and stable days of weather no major thunderstorms , very few people on the main trail will reach much above 12,000'for a day hike. Sadly many will do the go in the dark and spend hours trail finding, going later as the melt starts you will post hole waist deep or more if you break a snow bridge or tree well or rock well .
This winter hiking up to shovel we used the kitchen sink: ski ,skins , microspikes, trail runners, snow shoes, e-bike (pushing and riding) , one trip after leaving the main track it took me 20 minutes to go about 50'( from the bathroom area to the store) snow was at least 4' deep and not set up.Next trip snow shoes.

We are not seeing the melt at the upper elevation yet, we watch the waterfall and the North Fork Bridge just above the store.When the melt starts the Portal roars and late at night you can hear the rocks tumbling in the creeks, our concerns are the creeks jumping the banks which has happened with monsoons but not with run off, this year may test that.
All the stream crossing will be wider and the normal rock hops will be under water , the logs before Lone Pine Lake may float ., going into OutPost camp area will be very wet and the stream coming out of Mirror Lake will cover the trail.
Always a problem area is trailside meadow the trail is gone and a steep wall blocks going higher, this can be pasted by going left of the wall using the canyon that leads into trailcamp area. Most years this is the turn around for many day hikers Caution the slope leading down canyon goes to the waterfall above Out Post Camp DO NOT follow tracks to this area you are walking on a stream and this will exit into that waterfall.
All the basic winter mountaineering skills are needed , we will have several more snow storms , expect high winds , several will have snow blindness, many will not use enough sun screen , many will not have enough layers to stay dry , Always stay in your group , don't leave a group member behind or go ahead of the group , this is risky in the summer but can be fatal during these conditions.
This sounds like a fun hike ! Hey front load all the information you can and be ready to have a great hike even if it is only a few hundred feet up the trail.


Edited by Doug Sr (05/10/23 09:36 AM)

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#105322 - 05/10/23 04:46 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Headed up to the Portal today...

Some comments and then a bunch of photos...

MR: Most smart people seem to be staying on the SOUTH SIDE all the way up to LBSL...I wasn't...got suckered into following a crappy boot track to about 9200'...scared the **** out of myself as I attempted to cross from N to S about where the Summer 1st Creek Crossing would be...you will hear the water rushing under your feet if you are DUMB enough to make the same mistake...as Doug has stated more than a few times recently...Snow Bridges are sure to collapse soon and will result in a fall to your death by drowning...Better judgement had me retreat for a Snack and then a walk to the Wilderness Sign on the Main Trail side.

There seems to be a really good boot track on the Main Trail side...continuous snow started right after the NF Crossing...didn't see any tracks I'd want to use heading down the "Old Trail" terrain...

Overflow Lot Cleaning was completed by Heavy Equipment Operators today...









The turn at the "top" of the Portal Road.



What you'll have to deal with if you want to walk the Main Trail...I chose to climb up the Carillon Creek snowfield.



The North Fork Of Lone Pine Creek crossing.



Looking up the NF towards UBSL...2 climbers on left side and at least 5 higher up...



The Wilderness sign is exposed now...



Carillon Creek Crossing...



Trailhead sign...



The Overflow Parking Lot...

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#105323 - 05/10/23 05:03 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
paul Offline
Member

Registered: 12/23/02
Posts: 567
Loc: Santa Clarita, CA
Richard, as always, great photos and they all tell a story.

Question though, how does the Portal Family Campground look? I am arriving Friday, May 26th...I had to cancel my Wednesday and Thursday dates since Rec.Gov indicates the campground will not open to Friday.

Do you see any work being done at the campground?

Paul

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#105324 - 05/10/23 05:17 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: paul]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
You always seem to remind me of the things I was going to mention...

There is still a LOT of snow in the campgrounds...but there is also a lot of dirt showing. I couldn't predict...

There were a couple of "official looking" people looking at the campground...maybe checking out what needs to be done to get them open...?

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#105326 - 05/12/23 05:53 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Warm day run off could be starting from the upper elevation both NF and waterfall showing increase flow this afternoon, still freezing in the shaded area in the portal . We are starting to make the transition to spring but not melting out due to the deep snow in the shaded areas. Richard will post some photos of his trip today I hope .

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#105327 - 05/12/23 06:55 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Highlight of the day...hanging a quick left at the Hostel and spending time BSing with Doug, Cayden, Ranger Chris and 2 great young men from Alabama... ( Richard didn't hear what they called him!) they made a trip to the big mountain and now have stories and pictures to hang in thier offices.
Earlier in the day (about a Noon start), I climbed up the North Fork to UBSL (really, not calling LBSL UBSL this time)...

Here are a few photos of the Family Campground and then some of the North Fork...












UBSL...Some really nice tent sites up there...no water showing...melting required...



The Headwall above UBSL...day climbers can contour left above LBSL and shave quite a distance...



Looking down to LBSL...it's melted out...


Now for some complaints...

Boot tracks all over the place...the snow is still firm enough that it didn't matter, but I'd say a week from now it's going to be hell if there isn't a DEEP boot track...

Glissade tracks wiping out what appeared to be good boot tracks...can't you move your lazy @$$ over a little bit???

Same for the dam BC Skiers...I realize your line might have to cross my boot track, but seriously, wiping out a long stretch of tracks???


I do have to admit to stopping to admire the Classic Figure 8's coming off the North Face of Thor...that was a talented pair of skiers...(I was going to take a pic on the way down, but forgot...)


Edited by Doug Sr (05/12/23 07:24 PM)

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#105328 - 05/13/23 07:04 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
paul Offline
Member

Registered: 12/23/02
Posts: 567
Loc: Santa Clarita, CA
Thanks Richard. It looks like the Portal Family Campgrund is clearling out nicely and will be ready for Memorial Day Weekend.

Paul

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#105329 - 05/13/23 07:44 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: paul]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Yeah, unless there's another cold snap, the snow is a goner...Doug stated that he doesn't think the Portal area is seeing anything below about 40, so 24/7 melt...

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#105354 - 05/18/23 08:17 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Quick update Major run off has started so watch the stream crossing and snow bridges breaking, snow surface is wet and slick!
Water turn on started and will be tested next Monday / Tuesday a slight chance things may open late next week but many downed trees in the Portal and FS crew working to clear the hazard trees .
Melt is clearing the lower elevation quickly but this means the trail conditions will be a wreck changing by the hour and we could see many small wet slides and rockfall coming down area of concern is from the north fork crossing up , recall the slopes of Thor and again anything past Lone Pine Lake the walls to the south can have rockfallonto the trail area.

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#105355 - 05/18/23 11:45 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
So, this just popper up in my feed...



This was from: Premiere Buttress (5.8/A0) - May 18, 2013...with Myles.

Quite the contrast...

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#105356 - 05/18/23 01:21 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
In 2022, I hiked to the Summit on the Main Trail (using the Switchbacks) on May 17 and in 2021 on May 12, as well as hiked the High Sierra Trail in June 2021 encountering trivial creek crossings. This year is certainly on the other end of Bell Curve. Maybe next year we will finally have a Reversion to the Mean?

Richard, Your recent photos are REALLY HELPFUL. Thanks, Jim.

PS- In May 12,2013 (6 days before Richards May, 18, 2013 photo above), I reached the Summit, but still needed to take the Snow Chute approach.

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#105363 - 05/21/23 08:21 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Some (usual) off-topic...

Quote:
Highlight of the day...hanging a quick left at the Hostel and spending time BSing with Doug, Cayden, Ranger Chris and 2 great young men from Alabama...


Part of the conversation was about how Ridgecrest isn't immune to the disturbing trend of increased petty crime...my wife's e-bike had been stolen right outside the back door of her workplace (disappeared in less than 10 minutes of being outside). Well, the good folks of Ridgecrest PD (don't defund the Police) managed to recover the bike yesterday...apparently, RC has a gang that likes to steal bikes and motorcycles... (Kern County Sheriffs department told me the same thing when one of my dirt bikes went missing).My wife offered them free food, but they were too busy to stay...


Somewhat on topic...curiosity has the best of me, so I'm heading back up to Indy to check some things out...like that new road up towards Indy Peak...

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#105366 - 05/21/23 08:55 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
The trail head puzzle after about 100' on the main trail you hit the avalanche debris field , many are going up the snow some are going north as the trail would go and about 150' you join the dry trail.
Getting down to the trail is a steep slope so watch out , I wouldn't do this in the dark!!!! snow clearing quickly on the lower elevation and the main runpoff has started from the upper elevation, Still winter conditions with the spring conditions mixed in . snow surface is not quite snow and not sluch but very slick so poles and good boots for the lower elevation .

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#105373 - 05/23/23 03:54 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Ditto on what Doug's says on not wanting to negotiate the Avi Debris in the dark...large potential for a slip that could end badly...there are "flags" marking a somewhat logical route through...

The WPS was being stocked yesterday...I was standing there chanting Open...Open...Open...(not really)

Interesting day...I did basically nothing, other than hang out...

I did meet Diana, the true Queen of Mt. Whitney...300+ ascents...

The sweeping of the upper loop is finished...downed trees may still be an issue...(maybe???)

Parking down below the upper loop is a royal PITA...

The Campground Host was moving in...

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#105378 - 05/23/23 03:29 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
LostInMtn Offline
Member

Registered: 04/30/23
Posts: 14
Loc: Pasadena, CA
Right now the "old trail" is much more nicer/safer. I took it down on Sunday evening because I didn't feel like trying to cross the raging creek. It's in better condition than the regular trail.

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#105382 - 05/23/23 04:26 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Ohikero Offline
Member

Registered: 04/27/23
Posts: 6
Loc: Ohio
RE: petty thefts, is anyone aware of any problems leaving their gear at Trail Camp or Trail Crest for the final push to the summit? (I do know about marmot-proofing them first). Thinking about doing that if my energy is low when we go in August...

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#105383 - 05/23/23 04:31 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Ohikero]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
I don't think you'll have to worry about your fellow hikers taking your gear up on the mountain...at the Portal is probably a different story...although still unlikely.

I've seen gear on the mountain for weeks... at which time, I'll usually take it down to the Store...

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#105384 - 05/23/23 05:35 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
This video just popped up in my feed...
Well worth the 4 minutes...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDTIISdWr_8

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#105394 - 05/27/23 07:41 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Portal Store opened yesterday Friday May 26 today was the first day we started with cooking Hours the next few days 9-6 . a kink wth the internet so cash only till Tuesday afternoon.

Now the trail stuff snow still at the first turn at the Portal short trickie section slick and steep then dry trail to about the Major stream crossing , some are rock hopping others turning back others waking in the water patchy snow after the stream crossing then soild to trail crest boot track as groups of PCT hikers coming down , some this is the end point for the season a few are re suppling and going back up, Next supply ??????? all road closed north of the Portal road for many miles long walks into town for resupplies?

North Fork getting ski traffic since these are experienced backcountry folks and only going to ski down don't care much about the summit , North fork first canyon a mess trees, rocks and should start hearing of snow bridges breaking.

Main trail many some where are hearing easy hike switchback may be open, coming with city clothing , shorts and tank tops , saw a young man that lost a large section of flesh sliding down with shorts seems this system would work until one runs out of flesh.
Have had many questions about spikes , Vs crampons it is the time of day and the weather , how cold is it? will the slope freeze on the way down and then what do you do?
Had a chat with one of the weather forecaters for our area seems the limit they work with is 9000' , no radar coverage , I said I feel that most often the wind and temperatures are close to what we will experience but the moisture is very seldom correct. This also follows up on a meeting several years ago with both the Vegas and Reno staff , but still my thoughts are you can glean the images and see weather patterns from about 2000 miles out and see the amount of moisture , this will give you a slight chance of where a system will hit the west coast or gulf and then watch the movement as the system hits land.

Now quite on the rescue front till today . Rescue in progress this afternoon no details .

Winter conditions , wet slide, rock fall are still a risk ! Bring all the gear extra socks , sun screen sunglasses, gloves you know the basic stuff Gaiters would help and plan for a turn around long before the summit on a day hike.

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#105395 - 05/28/23 06:26 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
hightinerary Offline
Member

Registered: 01/02/03
Posts: 934
Loc: Maryland
Jacket and snacks?

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#105397 - 05/28/23 08:03 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: hightinerary]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Got a report from a hiker said he watched a person do the big slide thought it could of been 1000' , person got up but reporting party said he didn't want a repeat event if he slipped. Came down and had lunch

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#105398 - 05/29/23 06:48 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Slow period this aftrrnoon so I did a trip up to the first major stream (North Fork of Lone Pine Creek) up the closed old trail and down the main trail. Old trail has three steep deep sonw fields to cross the first section making the loop I would say 70-30 main trail is the choice BUT you need to follow the track into the downed trees and snow field about 150 ' then you join the dry main trail, trail is dry to and above the above stream crossing.

I waited for a test case hiker to cross the creek but they looked and looked and went back down , the rocks are showing and little to no water is flowing over the rock NOW , I crossed using poles and focus .

Talked with many hikers that went up and turned around at various points Outpost for many, and some not reaching Lone Pine Lake before turning around.

Next walked down with 2 BC ski guys that had day hiked to the summit and skied down about 6 hours RT , report of stalled start B/C fire report or rescue that was maybe not needed.
These guys are on the last day of a 40 day tour so very hard core and work the Resorts in Colorado all winter.

Footware is a major problem , trail runners or Mall ware isn't getting it now. Warm enough to surface melt and make the surface wet and slick.
Melt is strong now I woud think the 500' a week guide I use is happening now. So far streams are staying in the banks and not flooding over the roads. I would expect major water at the Outpost area , the log bridge area and random small drainages starting to flow, rock fall will follow as the snow melts out, this is normal and most often will stop before the trail area , from Lone Pine Lake area to trailcrest you are in a scree field so listen for movement and watch the slopes (south of the trail).

North Fork is a mess trees /brush popping up now so a classic setup for a plunge down on a snow bridge or brush opening Stay focused and travel with a strong partner.

Thanks stay safe as you travel these changing conditions , ( mountaineering ) not hiking.

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#105400 - 05/30/23 06:45 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
AFM Offline
Member

Registered: 05/25/23
Posts: 7
Loc: RIO VISTA, CA
Thanks much for the update. Based on your decades of experience (read your book) what's the prognosis for 8/1/23?

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#105403 - 05/30/23 07:09 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: AFM]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Thanks for the book purchase, Aug 1 short sections of ice/snow still in the cable area , a few drifts on the north facing switchbacks near trailcrest. Unstable weather is normal for August . Based on past years if the trail isn't clear by mid July conditions very little changes before our 3 week of August snow cycle starts.

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#105407 - 05/31/23 06:55 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
AFM Offline
Member

Registered: 05/25/23
Posts: 7
Loc: RIO VISTA, CA
Thanks. We have an overnight permit starting 8/1/23. We are planning to camp off the trail just above Consultation Lake. We are also intrigued by the shortcuts but they may be too much at ages 74 and 75. Did White and Langley last year. Also Kiliminjaro but didn't make it to the top due to sinus infections and AMS. Hopefully we can make it to the top but regardless it will be a great experience.

Looking forward to cheeseburgers on or about 8/4/23.

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#105408 - 05/31/23 08:30 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
LSUTiger Offline
Member

Registered: 05/31/23
Posts: 5
Loc: Louisiana
New to this forum and will be attempting to hike to the summit of Whitney in about two weeks. We are planning on starting at the portal and going up the Whitney Trail. Planning on camping at the Trail Camp on the way up and on the way down. Any info on the trail conditions to the summit would be appreciated and is the trail clear to the top? Tips? Thanks

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#105412 - 05/31/23 07:19 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: LSUTiger]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Any reason you want to camp at trailcamp? Give yourself another day to adjust to the elevation and carry your weight 5 miles less by staying at OutPost, in two weeks you may find dry ground to camp on , also if weather comes up trailcamp is a very windy area plus colder than OutPost. Water could still be frozen in the trailcamp area and often poop bags are floating in the lake.
Hulda Crooks went from OutPost to the summit when she was 91 and back to the Portal that day.

The trail is melting out quickly on the lower elevation but the trail above 12,000 will have snow and no trail above Trailside Meadow to trailcrest .
Updates often until the trail starts to clear and the switch is from the chute to the switchbacks.

Sign on to Google Earth and you can see the area very well , look to the right of the 97 switchbacks and you can see the chute area that needs to be climbed to reach trailcrest. Hint I follow the rock band that will clear long before the switchbacks open up , this rock band is on the least steep area of the chute, often missing 30-40 % of the snow field.

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#105435 - 06/05/23 05:28 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
MichaelV Offline
Member

Registered: 06/05/23
Posts: 2
Loc: United States
June 05, 2023

Hey All:

A friend and I did the Whitney shuffle May 30 / 31, 2023.

1) Yup, there is still a heck of a lot of snow. A lot of snow. Starting from about 1.5 miles up the trail, the conditions quickly change, and the trail is typically buried in feet of snow and / or avalanche fall-out. The trekking is much slower than normal, and route finding is an essential element, so plan plenty of extra time.
- Of course, snow melt is happening quickly, and as you read this, there will probably be more trail opened at the lower elevations. Still, there will be a lot of snow and fall-out for many weeks.

2) With all the snow, crampons, trekking poles, and at the higher elevations, ice axes ARE ESSENTIAL. Don't leave home without them.

3) I did mention that route finding and navigation will be an important part of this excursion. Once above the snow line, there are rarely trails or visible trail markers. Do be sure you have navigation tools. And if using a phone for nav, be sure to have battery back-up.

4) Few people are currently going beyond where the snow starts. My climbing partner and I had Outpost Camp entirely to ourselves. Seriously, we were the only two there, and we did not see anyone passing through. We did run into two guys who were planning to make Trail Camp, but we are pretty sure they turned around. Of course, it may be improving these next few days, but be prepared to be out there mostly alone.
- Have an emergency beacon (Garmin InReach, Zoleo...)

5) I strongly recommend boots! I know, so many folks want to cut weight and skip along in trail runners (including me), but these are really not the conditions to skimp on the footsie-wear. You will be post-holing, crossing streams, and (as mentioned) wearing crampons. What would you rather?: lightweight runners with your crampons slinging off your bottoms, & cold, wet feet, or good waterproof boots that will hold your crampons, and keep your feet warm & dry (ahhhhh).
- (Bonus tip: pair those boots with a nice set of gaiters to help ensure excellent protection from the wet and cold.)

If you are prepared, it should be a really good time and a challenging adventure. It seems many permit winners are seeing the conditions and just not going, or they are turning around early. It's a shame as I'm sure many were looking forward to the hike, but good that if they are not ready for these types of conditions, that they are not taking unnecessary risks.

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#105436 - 06/05/23 08:14 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: MichaelV]
LSUTiger Offline
Member

Registered: 05/31/23
Posts: 5
Loc: Louisiana
Appreciate this update. I have never been to Whitney and have a permit starting June 15th. We did El Cap last year and unsure what to expect or if we should postpone??? Sounds like we will have a hard time getting to even the Outpost Camp, correct? Any other hikes in the area that we could do? Traveling from Louisiana and not sure what to do since the conditions are less than favorable this year. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

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#105437 - 06/06/23 08:28 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: LSUTiger]
MichaelV Offline
Member

Registered: 06/05/23
Posts: 2
Loc: United States
Hi LSU,

Yes, it will be a challenge just getting to Outpost. But, it can be done, if you have the equipment, know how to use it, and can handle trudging miles through the snow (when it gets soft in the late morning, you do a lot of two-steps forward, slide back one).

I'm afraid I don't know of many options in the area. There is Mt Langley to the south of Whitney. That would be covered with snow too, but I think the approach to around 11,000 feet is less steep. Might be a reasonable option for camping.

Also, if you can make Outpost, that makes for a nice overnight camp as well, even if you don't go up the mountain.

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#105438 - 06/07/23 04:56 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Richard P.]
Nick73 Offline
Member

Registered: 05/16/23
Posts: 2
Loc: FL, USA
Overnight permit for July 10-11, 2023. Planning main trail. New to climbing. Need to decide if we should buy plane tickets or not soon. Thoughts on conditions for those dates?

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#105439 - 06/07/23 09:40 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Nick73]
vanjitsu Offline
Member

Registered: 06/06/23
Posts: 1
Loc: usa
Thank you, thank you, thank you Richard and Doug for the frequent trail condition reports over the past few weeks. These were incredibly useful for and appreciated by us.

----------

Trail conditions from June 1st & 2nd (reported by two noobs). Focusing more on our way down on June 2nd since that’s more relevant.

We headed up at 720am on June 1 and headed down at 220pm on June 2

Snow bridges were suss on both days, so I’d be even more cautious now.

On our way up, most of the trail was impassable. Stay to the right at the very start and you can pick up the dry, real trail.

There's a sketchy water crossing before the North Fork crossing. We crossed on branches. On our way up, there was a thinning snow bridge. On our way down it was gone.

The North Fork crossing was fine on both days with exposed rocks.

On our way down, the set of switchbacks closest to the North Fork crossing were clear. The set of switchbacks further uphill were still just an avalanche debris field. We crossed directly across that, following boot path.

On our way down, the switchbacks between the Lone Pine crossing and Outpost camp were thawing and we took them. On the upper switchbacks there was still snow/ice and we stepped through once to thigh-deep (Ground + 1.5ft of air + 1ft of ice/snow). Just a small amount of melt running underneath and not super hard to navigate. Injury risk.

We crossed directly across Bighorn Park on the way up and were a little more circuitous on the way back to avoid stepping through into water.

We went straight up and then straight down any switchbacks after this point.

On the way down the switchbacks between Outpost and Mirror Lake, I glissaded almost directly into a person sized hole. I kinda saw it coming up and jumped over. Would not recommend. Learned not to glissade toward unseeable terrain.

We roughly followed a combo of boot path & the real trail after this part and nothing crazy happened. Very mushy on the way down at 220pm, with lots of post holing.

On our way up, we did the last mile or two to trail camp in snow shoes. Not strictly necessary since someone busted by us in trail runners and crampons, but she said her feet got pretty wet and cold. Would not recommend unless you’re also a legend. She summited the next day and passed us on the way down too. We named her Speedy.

We didn’t eat breakfast or lunch & just snacked on the way up. Noob mistake. That + altitude had us both super depleted at Trail Camp. I wasn’t able to get enough food down & didn’t attempt to summit the next day.

My buddy felt good and he started an attempt at 630am. He used crampons & an ice axe. He reached the ridge at 845am via the chute. At 1030 he was within a mile(?) of the summit and turned around due to altitude, available food, and needing enough in the tank to make it back to trail head. He had good snow conditions on the way up & very wet snow on his way down the chute at 11am-12pm.

On June 2nd, there were 4 or 5 tents at trail camp, I saw 6 people attempt to summit, and 3 made it. 1 of them was Speedy, in trail runners and crampons. She said she should have brought waterproof shoes. 2 of them were in just boots and trekking poles. I'm pretty sure they didn't have crampons [will check with my friend and edit]. My friend was in crampons, step kicking up the chute, and felt like an ice axe was very necessary for his risk tolerance due to the steepness.

As we were leaving Trail Camp, a group of 8 people showed up, planning to attempt at 12am to get sunrise at the summit and good snow conditions on their way down.

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#105441 - 06/07/23 07:07 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: vanjitsu]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Hey thanks for the detailed report! I like the up and down equations.
So today snow early morning temp at the Portal 40 degrees.
Reports of 6 inches at 11000'
Mix of hikers using e ledges others the south side all agree first half of
lower canyon is a mess.
Skiers are still coming skinning up. Most indicate marked days to conditions being not worth the risk.

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#105443 - 06/08/23 04:29 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Doug Sr]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
I always hear"starting at 2 AM" yesterday one would of walked into whiteout conditions several hours into the hike,may have trouble following the trail and not had a full nights sleep.This added together could be part of the root cause for many not making it past trailcamp or below. Add to this not drinking enough with electrolytes,snacks and hiking fast(greater than 1MPH or less),

What you do at the lower elevation determines what you can do at the upper elevation.
Just some thoughts .Thanks

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#105457 - 06/11/23 02:31 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Doug Sr]
ComradeBear Online
Member

Registered: 04/16/22
Posts: 25
Loc: California, USA
A few days late here, but hopefully this info will still be helpful!

Went up North Fork (Mountaineer's Route) on Tuesday, June 6th.

-No problems from trailhead to about 1/4 way into first canyon. A couple avalanche debris spots, but not a problem.

FIRST CANYON:
-Lots of snow melt.
-Messy from avalanche debris all over the place.
-Snow bridges were sketchy, but intact up to the E-ledges. (Always fun to hike up a little ways, only to turn around and see a deep hole that shows you were walking over a 20-30ft ice cavern eek )
-North of E-Ledges the snow bridges have collapsed and there's no chance of getting up through there. Have to take the E-ledges at this point, but they are clear.
-After E-Ledges (last ~1/3 of the canyon), snow bridges were intact, however also sketchy. Decided to scale the rock walls on the right side. You'll have to walk right through a waterfall if you want to avoid the snow.
-This next week or two I would be QUITE careful in the first canyon, as those snow bridges will be collapsing one-by-one.

LOWER BOY SCOUT LAKE:
-Nothing really sketchy from here on out
-Snow everywhere. Compacted & 6ft deep or so in many spots.
-Lake has melted out and is accessible for water.
-Easy snow field up to Upper Boy Scout Lake.
-Follow foot trails up if you can, otherwise just stay away from obvious spots of water flow or the south side of boulders/rocks that stick up from the snow surface.

UPPER BOY SCOUT LAKE:
-More snow everywhere. Some flat slabs are clear.
-Lake is mostly frozen, but pockets of thin ice. The outlet stream is open for water.
-Camped here for the night. Planned to summit the next morning.

***Heard from other hikers that Iceberg Lake and snow chute are still loaded with snow. Final 400 is an ice sheet and people were taking the traverse.****

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Wednesday, June 7th

UPPER BOY SCOUT:
-Woke up next morning to a snowstorm that was not projected in the weather forecast. Whiteout conditions.
-Tried to wait it out, but by 11am it kept going with some clear windows. It snowed ~6in before we packed up and started hiking out.
-Grouped up with others in the area to keep an eye on each other to ensure everyone made it out okay.

LOWER BOY SCOUT:
-Lower Boy Scout lake area was also snowing.

FIRST CANYON:
-Snowing at the top 1/2 of first canyon, raining at bottom 1/2.
-Because of the low temp and extra snow, we managed to take the snow bridges(STILL FELT SKETCHY) at the top of the first canyon down to the E-Ledges.
-E-LEDGES WERE SKETCHY because they were slick and wet from snow melt and slush, but doable with care.
-Bottom half of first canyon was slippery snow slush, but then easy all the way to the bottom once you got off the snow.

*****Experienced mountaineers/hikers: Definitely doable. Just be aware of the conditions and don't be stupid. Everything after the first canyon is awesome (for now.)

*****Beginners/intermediates: KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING and BE VIGILANT when it comes to the snow, snow bridges, and conditions. KNOW WHEN TO TURN AROUND. There's always another time and NO SHAME IN STAYING ALIVE.

Hope this info helps!



TL;DR:
-Snow bridges are dropping out one-by-one in first canyon.
-E-Ledges a must now.
-Awesome and plenty of snow afterwards at Lower and Upper Boy Scout Lakes.
-Surprise snowstorm & whiteout conditions at Upper Boy Scout next morning; forced to come down.

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#105459 - 06/11/23 03:29 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: ComradeBear]
ComradeBear Online
Member

Registered: 04/16/22
Posts: 25
Loc: California, USA
Some photos and videos from June 6-7:

Whitney 2023 - June 6-7 - Google Drive

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#105461 - 06/11/23 07:25 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Richard P.]
mattmac Offline
Member

Registered: 06/10/23
Posts: 2
Loc: OH
Just summited Whitney on June 9th. Checkout my video to see hiking conditions. Best of luck for those about to summit! - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC1a7uews-g

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#105463 - 06/12/23 06:34 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: mattmac]
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
Matt and Jenny,

Congratulations on a fine outing and thanks so much for sharing this excellent video. This is very helpful to those of us heading up soon.

Jim

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#105467 - 06/12/23 06:47 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Jim F]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Snow,rain. wind,thunder the last few days fresh snow covering tracks cold in the Portal early mornings 35 yesterday at 7 AM.

Watch the YouTube posted for conditions and Comradebear for the mountaineering route both excellent efforts covering the current conditions.


Edited by Doug Sr (06/12/23 06:48 PM)

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#105469 - 06/13/23 08:57 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Doug Sr]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Portal Road closed today just outside of town,water damage and risk of rd collapse
.Several option to get to the Portal Tuttle Creek to Sunset then Horseshoe Meadow Road

Detour signs not out yet so cars,RV ,trailers driving in circles.
Second option is Lubkin 5 miles s/o Lone Pine Pine but narrow one lane road. Will join Horseshoe Rd about 5 miles up from 395
Last option is dirt and may washout is Hogback rd. These road all are narrow and w many blind corners so drive slow.

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#105470 - 06/14/23 07:40 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Doug Sr]
paul Offline
Member

Registered: 12/23/02
Posts: 567
Loc: Santa Clarita, CA
As well as highway 136. This is the highway that the Vistor's Center is located on. The road is closed after the Visitor's Center.

From Caltrans:

SR 136

[IN THE CENTRAL CALIFORNIA AREA & SIERRA NEVADA]

Is closed from the Jct of US 395 to 13.5 mi east of the Jct of US 395 /at Dolomite Loop Rd/ (Inyo Co) - Due to flooding - Motorists are advised to use an alternate route

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#105471 - 06/14/23 07:47 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: paul]
hightinerary Offline
Member

Registered: 01/02/03
Posts: 934
Loc: Maryland
How will I get to my gig at the Darwin Dance Hall tonight?

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#105472 - 06/14/23 10:07 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Randy Stephens Offline
Member

Registered: 05/17/23
Posts: 4
Loc: Alabama
Hey guys, I have a permit for July 17 but that is starting to look more and more like it will not be free of snow. Any suggestions on how or if I can get a permit for later in the summer/ fall? Thanks

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#105476 - 06/14/23 07:38 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Randy Stephens]
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
Randy,

Many hikers with permit reservations understandably can't go for various reasons. If they actively cancel their reservations, new reservation availability will repopulate on the Recreation.gov website for Mt Whitney. For example, check now the website for June and you will see that much reservation availability has resurfaced.

As for July, August, ... there is no availability yet, as many folks are waiting to see what happens with conditions (or their schedules).

We are all in this together, so if you eventually decide not to go on July 17, cancel your reservation. Hopefully, you can snag a reservation that another party has cancelled.

Jim

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#105478 - 06/14/23 09:45 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 - Breaking News... [Re: Doug Sr]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Portal Road opened this afternoon,several people summited today conditions still snow cover, many false tracks and a drop of rain lightning show tonight to the east with 7 drops of drizzle.

This year rounds out our list of normal for the Portal,Fires ,floods shutdowns for various reasons earthquake and now avalanches!

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#105480 - 06/15/23 03:47 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jim F]
Randy Stephens Offline
Member

Registered: 05/17/23
Posts: 4
Loc: Alabama
Thanks so much Jim!! Will do.

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#105485 - 06/16/23 12:10 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
SebyT Offline
Member

Registered: 06/16/23
Posts: 4
Loc: San Francisco Bay Area
Video taken of the Notch & the final chute to summit; Taken June 9th, 2023

On YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yod9p6cmdrE

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#105494 - 06/18/23 06:20 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: SebyT]
Randy Stephens Offline
Member

Registered: 05/17/23
Posts: 4
Loc: Alabama
Seby, my pass is for July 17. IF the trail has not opened up is it possible to the mountaineers route without an ice ax?

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#105495 - 06/19/23 05:50 AM You Can't Outguess Mother Nature [Re: Richard P.]
booger Offline
Member

Registered: 05/25/05
Posts: 231
Loc: CA
Since 1989 I've tried to do Cottonwood Pass or Trail Pass on a Memorial Day weekend to get an idea of snow conditions/water availability for a later summer 2+ week loop across the Kern and back. For the past three years there has been no snow at Horseshoe Meadow. While not Horseshoe, check out this previously posted video of recent snow conditions further north.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVfC4hjB2Uc

And there is still over four feet of snow at Crabtree Meadow.

I'm guessing (really worth what you're paying for this - nothing) that it will be late July for backcountry snow to fully melt - and even later for the stream crossings to become less deadly.

I have a Shepherd Pass permit for 18 July but am now hoping to go over Cottonwood Pass and slowly make my way north through Miter Basin - or since I'll be on a no agenda, no clue trek, just wander around the Eastern Sierra backcountry for two weeks.

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#105500 - 06/19/23 11:29 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
LSUTiger Offline
Member

Registered: 05/31/23
Posts: 5
Loc: Louisiana
I have never hiked Mt. Whitney and have a pass for June 28th. Planning on leaving from the Portal and hiking up to the Outpost Camp and then hopefully to the summit the next day. From what I see there has been pretty warm temperatures from around 12,000 and below. Trying to get an understanding of conditions and what to expect up to the Outpost Camp and then past there. Thanks

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#105501 - 06/19/23 11:36 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Randy Stephens]
ComradeBear Online
Member

Registered: 04/16/22
Posts: 25
Loc: California, USA
If the main trail hasn't melted out, then the Mountaineer's Route will definitely still have the snow chute. You will still need an ice axe.

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#105502 - 06/19/23 11:43 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: LSUTiger]
ComradeBear Online
Member

Registered: 04/16/22
Posts: 25
Loc: California, USA
Check out mattmac's video above. It was over a week ago, but the most recent post that shows conditions on the main trail.

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#105504 - 06/19/23 01:22 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: LSUTiger]
AFM Offline
Member

Registered: 05/25/23
Posts: 7
Loc: RIO VISTA, CA
Originally Posted By LSUTiger
I have never hiked Mt. Whitney and have a pass for June 28th. Planning on leaving from the Portal and hiking up to the Outpost Camp and then hopefully to the summit the next day. From what I see there has been pretty warm temperatures from around 12,000 and below. Trying to get an understanding of conditions and what to expect up to the Outpost Camp and then past there. Thanks


We have a overnight permit for 8/1. Planning to camp at Consultation Lake, take a day to acclimate, and hopefully summit the next day if conditions warrant. We will look for purple and gold.

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#105511 - 06/20/23 11:01 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Randy Stephens]
SebyT Offline
Member

Registered: 06/16/23
Posts: 4
Loc: San Francisco Bay Area
Randy, Yes, you'd still need an ice axe. I can't imagine going without one. Good luck! : )

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#105513 - 06/20/23 10:47 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Bryan M Offline
Member

Registered: 06/17/23
Posts: 4
Loc: Minnesota
While everyone is talking about July expectations.

My permit is for July 19th. Plan on taking two days to work up to Outpost Camp, staying at Trail Camp night 1. From what I understand, it is likely that the snow chute to the right (North) of the switch backs is probably going to be the route. Fingers crossed that the switch backs open up by then though. But I'm getting ready in case...

Thoughts? Things to keep my expectations in check? I've been trying my best to look into into online, but this seems to be the place for advice from the experts.

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#105514 - 06/20/23 10:51 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Bryan M]
Bryan M Offline
Member

Registered: 06/17/23
Posts: 4
Loc: Minnesota
Whoops, newbie mistake already. Switched around Outpost and Trail Camp in my message

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#105520 - 06/23/23 01:21 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Bryan M]
TaylorHenry9 Offline
Member

Registered: 06/23/23
Posts: 1
Loc: Loveland, CO
Hey all, trying to get some information on what the hike to Trail Camp is like. I haven't seen too many condition updates and was curious if anyone had any. I know the chute is the only way further, but wanted to check on that first 6 miles.

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#105522 - 06/23/23 08:56 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: TaylorHenry9]
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
MAIN TRAIL CONDITIONS June 21-22:

Went up the Main Trail Wed June 21 in the afternoon and camped. Ascended Mt Whitney the following day and then hiked back down to the Portal. The weather was great. The timing of the significant hiking on snow was planned so the conditions for snow travel were good.

I started out going up the Old Trail to avoid the crossing of the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek one mile up the regular trail. Then rejoined the regular trail 50 paces after the creek crossing.

For mile 1-2 the trail is clear. As usual, a grouse was making a racket protecting its turf. (No, that sound is not a bear ready to attack!)

From Mile 2 to Lone Pine lake the Trail has succumbed to many fallen trees and other debris. The Trail Crews are currently working hard to restore matters. Much appreciated!

As one approaches Lone Pine Lake, the trail progressively becomes more covered by snow. Just before the Lake, the 11 log crossing of the creek is solid.

Trying to follow the Main Trail from Lone Pine Lake to the ridge above Mirror Lake (about 1.5 miles) required about 70% travel on snow. If one is not familiar with where the trail goes here, then meticulous prior study is crucial. Also there are many natural clues indicating were the trail should be if it is snow covered. Mirror Lake is half thawed. The crossing creek at the outlet of Mirror Lake is on a snow bridge, as well as the log crossing over the outlet flow from the Spring in Bighorn Park.

The ridge above Mirror Lake is dry. From the ridge I stepped on to the snow field to my left (south) and followed it to my favorite North Shore (Consultation Lake) campsites which were snow free. I did not camp there, as there was just a speck of thawing on the north shore, and I did not want to deal with it to get water. (However, I noted a camper there the next day on my descent).

Passing Consultation Lake I hiked a few more minutes (still on the snow field) to Trail Camp. To get a secluded and snow free camp site, I walked across the frozen pond to the north shore. There was nearby rapidly flowing water at the Pond outlet. Other sources of melting water were to be found nearby with a little investigation.

The following morning at 5:45 AM I left camp and continued on snow (the only option on all directions) to the base of the Chute. The snow for the ascent of the Chute was in perfect condition for ascending (at 6:15 AM). The rock band in the middle of the Chute is now quite exposed.

From Trail Crest to the back of the Keeler Needle is on clear trail. From the Keeler Needle to Summit Plateau there is the usual early summer snow field, but it is on steroids this year. On the far right side, there is a consensus (somewhat steep) path
up it.

On the Summit there were quite a few hikers enjoying the superb views in all directions and fine weather. Many people had camped at Iceberg Lake the night before and ascended the Mountaineers Route. The Summit Register was outside the ice filled Hut and many pages remained waiting for signatures on the official paper.

I descended the same way I came up. Significantly, I started down the Chute at 1:00 PM. The snow had softened enough for a secure plunge step. But depending on location, the steepness of the Chute and quality of the snow did change, and this was very carefully noted.

Summary:

For me, the hardest part of the hike was from mile 2 to the top of the ridge above Mirror Lake. Patience, navigation skills, and daylight will be an asset there currently.

Once on the snow field above Mirror Lake, the hike is basically business as usual for the prepared hiker with fundamental snow travel skills. It could be dangerous for others.

With the weather warming later this week, the conditions on the Main Trail might deteriorate above the Mirror ridge due to snow melt: areas where snow travel is now supported, might see the snow collapse into the underlying structures.

With the warmer weather this coming week, perhaps water flow in the creeks will rise. We have a family gathering campout planned at the Whitney Portal Family Campground for the weekend and I fear I might have reserved a campsite too close to the creek. I might have survived the hike up the Mountain, but not the Family Campground. Life plays out in interesting ways, as the Mountain still makes the rules!

Jim

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#105523 - 06/24/23 05:23 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jim F]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Thanks Jim for the detailed report as noted many miles of snow travel,for a seasoned travel a blessing but others a walk in circles findind the direction of the trail.Take note of Jim's times of the chute to avoid ice on the down climb.

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#105536 - 06/26/23 09:17 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Nick73 Offline
Member

Registered: 05/16/23
Posts: 2
Loc: FL, USA
All:

I just canceled an overnight permit for 3 people on July 10, 2023... It's available on the recreation.gov site now.

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#105539 - 06/26/23 12:13 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: SebyT]
SebyT Offline
Member

Registered: 06/16/23
Posts: 4
Loc: San Francisco Bay Area
Originally Posted By SebyT
Video taken of the Notch & the final chute (from the mountaineers route) to summit; Taken June 9th, 2023

On YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yod9p6cmdrE

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#105574 - 07/03/23 06:08 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jim F]
razmikO Offline
Member

Registered: 05/29/23
Posts: 4
Loc: CA_LosAngeles_LaCrescenta
Just attempted to hike up the chute on 6/30.
Taylor, Jim's description of the trail is as close to step by step instructions and description as one could ask for. I actually printed it out, and wrote my own notes along the way while looking at AllTrails map in order to create a visual in my mind before heading out.
A few notes that may help you in your journey.
1. I am 61 YO, and in quite a bit better shape than the average person.
2. I weigh 178 and am 6'2", very lean legs not build to carry heavy loads.
3. I trained in elevation, with 25-30 lbs backpack, and had all of the appropriate gear (no Ice Axe, no Crampons).

My challenges.
1. I expected it to be colder, but within the first mile i was over-heating, and as such, stopped several times to change layers.
2. Over-loaded with how much i ended up carrying. Did not plan well for the water supply. Carried too much water which added to the weight. If i had known that pretty much every 2-3 miles i could filter and resupply, I would carry much less water. Plan according to how much water you need.
I carried 44 lbs while trained with 30. This came to haunt me along the way.
3. Once past the first two miles, the few switchbacks are either blocked along the way, or impassable, you will see that most people have elected to take a snow-line straight up to the next point of destination. My partner and I pretty much were the only two trying to follow the guides of the AllTrails app. most everyone was simply following foot tracks or each other.
4. Due to the warm temperatures, the snow was slushy by 10 AM on the hike. quite a challenge to navigate. Slipped and fell several times. even while moving slower than the average hiker.
5. At a couple of stream (now waterfalls and deep wide stream), I could not navigate over the stones, I wasn't comfortable that i would not slip off the rocks, so i just walked through the stream (so much for gators, and water-proof boots). I think Jim or someone else mentioned taking plastic trash-bags over your boots , and walk through the stream. I strongly recommend this as you will need it to cross a couple of the streams (especially if you don't want to go over any snow bridges). I fell in one as the bridge collapsed. Thank God it was a shallow 3 feet, and narrow (4 feet) fast moving stream.
6. We started the hike late. On the trail at 7. Paid the price with soft/slushy snow on trail. For quite a long distance, you are expose to the sun straight down on you with not much shade for protection.
7. All the extra weight and trekking in snow slowed us (me) down considerably. It too us more than 10 hours to get to Consultation Lake, and our campsite. I strongly recommend that even for an overnight trip, be on the trail between 4 and 5 AM.
8. By the time we reached camp, we were exhausted, and barely grabbed dinner. That is when my partner told me he was feeling very nauseous. Oops. He is a strong 34 YO backpacker and thought it was because he was going hard and fast. Whatever the reason, he did not recognize that he was suffering from altitude sickness. I had purchased the O2 canisters from a sporting goods store, and visited my doctor for prescription altitude sickness medication. So we spent the next couple of hours healing the ill.
went to bed at 11:30 PM, and woke up at 4 PM to the sound of other hikers already making their way to the Chute.
We considered going for it, but felt exhausted from the night before. A quick early morning conference and the decision was made to no-go the climb. But I tell you, having gone that far, makes the chute look easy. Considering that after Trail Crest you still have over a mile to go, and some more climbing, and the fact that after descending, we still had a 4 hour drive home, we decided that we better pass on this time, and fight again next. BTW, we passed by two different groups at lower elevations. One group recognized the signs, headache, nausea, and decided to stop and camp where they were. the other group through they were feeling light headed since they hadn't had breakfast. So be ware, altitude sickness does not announce itself, you or a team member have to recognize the symptoms and put your foot down with regard to what to do next.
9. Descending the next morning.
We broke the distance into sections, so it was well managed from an emotional and mental aspect.
Had to traverse mostly through snow:
- We had micro-spikes, and DEFINITELY could have used CRAMPONS! seriously consider spending the money and get them. If your boots aren't made to accommodate them, just zip tie them onto your boots. Whatever you need to do!
- the hike down was quite a bit more tactical than i expected as every 2-3 steps one or the other foot would slide in any direction. Slipped and tumbled many times.

Summary:
Start Early.
Manager Amount of weight and water you carry.
have altitude sickness, and first aid kit handy.
Do the hike in 3 days rather than 2 if you can. Hike to camp; rest the next day. Summit and descend on day-3.
Carry micro-spikes and crampons if possible. You may need the crampons more than the micro-spikes.
If you plan to purchase a sattlelite communication and SOS device, I would recommend the higher end model as they are easier to setup and operate. Also, purchase it early and spend time setting it up. I had the Garmin InReach Mini-2; quite tedious to setup and operate. Ended up not using it at all.
I will definitely do the hike again, but only during no snow years.

Good luck to everyone who is going up in the next few days and weeks.

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#105591 - 07/07/23 08:28 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: razmikO]
Socks N Crocs Offline
Member

Registered: 11/14/22
Posts: 2
Loc: Southern California
Greetings! Does anyone have some high quality photos of Arc Pass in the last week or so? Thanks

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#105592 - 07/07/23 08:36 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: razmikO]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Great tips Raz, everyday we get the "I'm going to trailcamp "how long will it take?" Many are still thinking the trail is clear to trailcamp like summer and the chute is the only area of snow, , The snow is clearing now to just about outpost camp that is offset by more water and muddy areas, many still missing the trail above outpost camp area. A simple equation is do you want to carry the weight on the snow covered trail sleep at 12,000 feet hope the wind is calm and stress your first day getting to trailcamp? If then why not camp at the JMT junction camp that would put you a short distance from the summit? If you want to cut the distance down the second day?
My bias is never stay at trailcamp the first day, make the first day hike to the lower elevation camp, use this as a rest day get somewhat adjusted to the elevation , carry a light day pack to the summit and sleep again at the lower camp. Hulda Crooks did this at the age of 91 but came down to the portal on the second day not staying the extra night.

On the creek crossings rock hopping is a risk of a fall . either take off your boots or just get wet . Your feet are going to get wet at some point , so bring extra socks. Wool works great and a thin liner sock helps.
Some not using enough sunblock or glasses, the snow adds to the exposure , long pants ,long sleeve upper also helps plus a head cover of some type. Bugs a lot of bugs!
I always hear the afternoon thunderstorms get off the summit by...
Have we had any afternoon thunder storm ? If you see clouds building watch the rate of cover and the direction of the clouds moving if any ,don't walk into a storm!
A great couple of days watching records being set on the Badwater race , First a lady won the race ,and set a second place fastest time, next a young lady 18 YO finished the race and on the other end of the clock a 70 YO lady finished.
The winning runner was doing a 10 minute mile pace that would put her time for a Whitney RT of just under 4 hours. The race ends at the Portal.

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#105595 - 07/07/23 06:43 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: razmikO]
Randy Stephens Offline
Member

Registered: 05/17/23
Posts: 4
Loc: Alabama
Thanks so much guys for all the information. I have a day use permit for July 18. A couple of questions. I do not know how to use an ice ax, but I have used crampons. If I am going up the switchbacks is there a path to follow? Can I get to the summit and back in one day? If not I will be in Yosemite September 16-19 is there anyone who has an extra pass? I respect your opinions so thanks in advance for your advice.

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#105601 - 07/10/23 11:33 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Robert N Offline
Member

Registered: 07/10/23
Posts: 2
Loc: La Mesa CA
Heading up next Wednesday (7/19) This will be my 4th time up there; 1 one 2day trip - stayed at Trail Camp (first time in 2016) and then 2 solo 1 day(overnight) trips in 2021 and last year. Made the 1 day trips up and back in 18 hrs. Thinking not bad for a guy that is almost 60.

I did have some snow on those trips; however, nothing like what I am seeing from the great pics people have been posting this past 2 weeks.

My question is: in reference to Mr. Doug Sr's earlier quote, "the switchbacks are now available" Can a person go up the Chute and then come back down the switchbacks right now? Or, the reverse, go up the switchbacks and come down (Glissade) the Chute. Taking into account the weather and rate of melt - would either of these 2 options be possible?

Target time to be at Trail Camp is 4:00 AM and start ascent by 4:30/4:45.

Also, 100% agree with Doug Sr. on Outpost vs. Trail camp. Already have a group trip planned for next year and we will be staying at Outpost this time instead of Trail camp.

Any updates and answers to the above are greatly appreciated. Looking forward to getting back up there again next week!

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#105602 - 07/10/23 02:35 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Robert N]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
The switchback are clearing now the lower section and the top is starting to show middle section will be snow covered for a while. Many years people will go up the old trail route and traverse above the cable area,comes in about switchback 60,then switchback to trailcrest.
Another often overlooked route is the boulder
field near the northly area of the chute,these boulders are showing now and can cut about half the snow climb out.
Timing now is the key, time to get on the snow and back down before it gets hard.
Now onto the glissading thing ,as the area at the bottom and middle of the chute rocks will start surfacing ,a fall now or loss of control could be fatal.A long snow slide can beat you up but hitting the rocks never turn out well.We expect the next 5-7 day to be very hot 107 in town ip+ at the Portal.Streams will be a concern ,wet slides near the toe of any area that runs out maybe near the trail ,Above Mirror lake to trailcrest.

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#105603 - 07/10/23 03:38 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Robert N Offline
Member

Registered: 07/10/23
Posts: 2
Loc: La Mesa CA
Thank you Doug for all that information, those are great suggestions.

Looking at the switchbacks from Image; the end of the cables at #46, yes? Could I enter the switchbacks from there?
Also, where would I start to come in like you mentioned about the old trail route and get up to around #60 switchback? And, is it possible to go halfway up the Chute and come in at 90? Or, would this be a waste?

Thank you again for the advice on the Glissade, might not be a great idea by next week depending on the melt.

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#105604 - 07/10/23 05:34 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Robert N]
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
MAIN TRAIL CONDITIONS JULY 9:

Went up the Main Trail yesterday. Enjoyed great weather. Unfortunately, got back too late for dinner at the Portal Store.

Started out on the Old Trail (from the back of the Portal Pond) to avoid crossing the North Fork Creek.

Continuing on to Lone Pine Lake, the Trail is now basically clear of lingering snow patches and due to the work of the Trail Crew.

The log crossing just before Lone Pine Lake is enduring the increased flow in the creek. Two logs in the center of the stream are somewhat separated and hiking poles are helpful here.

On entering the Mt Whitney Zone (just past Lone Pine Lake) the trail is obscured by patches of snow for a couple hundred yards. Knowing where the trail is located and heads (by prior study of a map) is helpful.

Crossing Bighorn Park will likely result in shoes getting wet.

The Trail from the fine camping sites in Outpost Camp to Mirror Lake still has some patches of snow.

Patches of snow from Mirror Lake to the ridge above Mirror Lake also remain and obscure the Trail. Temporarily losing the Trail there should be expected.

From the ridge above Mirror Lake to Trail Crest, the Main Trail is left and hiking is still on a snow field. Snow quality remains adequate.

From a distance, it could be seen that Trailside Meadow and some of the trail in that area is clear now. While hiking there on the Trail might seem inviting, the Trail soon cross a steep angle area of snow (which will collapse later in the summer.

In the Snow Chute leading up to Trail Crest, the rock band is increasingly exposed.

The Trail is dry from Trail Crest to the Summit Snow Field starting behind the Keeler Needle.

Note: No hikers were seen on the switchbacks.

Jim

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#105605 - 07/11/23 08:34 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jim F]
Rhody Offline
Member

Registered: 02/16/08
Posts: 18
Loc: Exeter, R.I.
Thanks for the update, any good gouge on how the western approach looks, ie coming up from Crabtree.2 weeks till we start, onion valley heading south, I’m assuming there is still a good amount of snow above 10k, going to bring crampons, probably ice axes and micro spikes to cover all our bases, thanks

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#105607 - 07/11/23 02:22 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Rhody]
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
Rhody,

Since I was last looking west from the Mt Whitney summit on June 22 this year, the western approach appears much more hospitable. Timberline Lake has completely thawed and Guitar Lake is getting there. From Timberline Lake to where the Trail starts switchbacking up the westside, there are now many large areas that are free of snow. For the final several hundred yards before the intersection with the Whitney Trail, the JMT/HST is dry, as well as the campsites just below the Junction.

Assuming the weather is decent, it appears you have an exciting and doable trip planned. However, this year the unusual late July conditions might require using the brain (reading the terrain, navigation, frequent decision making, contingency planning...) more than the feet!

I've done this hike in early July after a big snow winter (but in milder conditions than this year) and found the following helpful:

While descending from Kearsarge Pass, avoid the bottom of the Kearsarge Lakes drainage above Bullfrog Lake. It might be flooded.

To avoid a potential challenging creek crossing on the approach to Vidette Meadow on the JMT, descend cross country from the outlet of Bullfrog Lake, always staying left of (but not far from) the creek. This descent lands right on the Vidette bear box on the JMT.

Take time of day into consideration when going over Kearsarge, Forester, Trail Crest to hike on the most favorable snow

After descending Forester, wrap around Diamond Mesa heading in the direction of Shepherd Pass to cross Tyndall Creek high. This tactic avoids a problematic Tyndall Creek/JMT crossing. It involves cross country travel over very easy terrain.

After your hike, please post a few tips/suggestions/warnings for those of us doing this hike later this Summer.

Jim

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#105609 - 07/12/23 07:29 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jim F]
Rhody Offline
Member

Registered: 02/16/08
Posts: 18
Loc: Exeter, R.I.
Thanks for the update, going to be interesting either way. Have done this basic trip numerous times over the years but of course this year was a record breaker. Just found out they cnxed our campground reservation at onion valley for the 24th, suppose to now finally open on the 25th. I got a good backup plan just in case but hopefully can get my daughter to the top of Whitney on this trip, been pumping her up about the burgers at the portal store so she is ready,lol

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#105610 - 07/13/23 10:19 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Hollywood Hiking Offline
Member

Registered: 07/13/23
Posts: 1
Loc: Hollywood, CA
I was able to secure a last minute day permit for July 20th and beyond excited to get out on the Whitney Trail for the first time. Will be hiking solo and don't feel I am experienced enough to tackle the chute and glissade on my own, so my questions are:

1) With the heat wave coming through this week, will the switchbacks be clear enough to try and tackle the peak in one day? I'm 40 yo, very fit/active male and will have been living at 6000' elevation for the proceeding two weeks

2) If not, how far up the trail will I be able to get without having to leverage crampons and an ice ax and how long will that part of the hike take? Happy leaving as early as needed to do the hike in one day, but if I won't be able to summit, would love to do as much of the hike in daylight as possible.

I'm totally OK with not being able to summit this trip, given its my first into the Whitney Wilderness and very much of the headspace of being OK to turn around at any point - just trying to adequately plan my departure time for this trip

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#105612 - 07/13/23 05:28 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Hollywood Hiking]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
We are talking with people that have screened all the sources and are hearing condition reports that are somewhat confusing , my thoughts are the reporting party based on the experience level they have are reporting on the point the trail/ area was a bit much for them and turn around , next people with years of snow travel and winter mountaineering see the area as in the transition phase some snow, some dry trail and a little wet at the stream crossing but walk through the water like a non event ,also the gear they have match the conditions no more no less ,if hard leather boots are needed for the crampons they have mountaineering boots. No not the 5 lb plastic ice climbing boots but winter boots with a soild shank , toe stiff enough to kick steps in and heel plunge on the way down.

We ask a few question when we talk to people , where do you live? do you Ski, been over 12000' feet before , about how long do you think it will take to reach the summit? How long to get down? Sun up is ? after the sun moves over the ridge how quick will the chute ice up? We fit these types of questions in while we are talking and answering questions . Many may be ready for trailcamp area but not up the chute and they understand turning around.
The next few weeks will see a transitiin from the chute to the trail and we will be near normal conditions still ice in the cable area, a short section just before trailcrest and the summit.

On the water issue notice that the normal water sources are running now and if you carry a bottle (wide mouth )if you add snow to about a half of bottle you will have water the entire trail. Carry the bottle in you jacket next to your body will help melt the snow.

Read the great reports from Jim and others for the fine points of the trail Thanks Be safe and the summit is the point you head back down>

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#105613 - 07/14/23 04:10 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Konrad Offline
Member

Registered: 07/13/23
Posts: 1
Loc: San Diego
Hi All!

I have a permit to enter on 7/23 to do the JMT, solo. I've been following the threads and updates and am really appreciative to all those who take the time to share their experiences.

Like the gentleman who posted about heading up on 7/20, I'm highly curious regarding the likelihood of the switchbacks being usable, though understand it is terrifically difficult to anticipate what conditions will be like a week+ away.

I did the JMT last year (in 15 days) and understand this year is likely to take a bit longer with the *SNOW* conditions. (Planning on taking microspikes, collapsible hiking poles (with snow baskets) and an ice axe.

A bit anxious about the South Fork Bridge area (just prior to Muir Trail Ranch resupply). Think -- on Alltrails, I saw that it may be possible to hike up either 1.5 or 3 miles from the bridge to cross. If anyone has info or updates would be very appreciative to hear. I'm reasonably experienced, but only on the trails.

FYI - good shape, 60 (soon to be 61 y/o), if anyone is headed up on or around July 23rd, please let me know @ konradmoore@yahoo.com. Good luck to everyone!!

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#105617 - 07/17/23 01:40 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Bryan M]
GreggS Offline
Member

Registered: 07/17/23
Posts: 3
Loc: Ca
Bryan - my permit is for the 19th/20th with stay at trail camp. My hiking partner just canceled. What time were you planning on leaving the portal on the 19th?

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#105618 - 07/17/23 03:05 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: GreggS]
Bryan M Offline
Member

Registered: 06/17/23
Posts: 4
Loc: Minnesota
Looking to hit up the East Sierra Visitor center right away in the morning of the 19th to pick up WagBags and anything else. So probably 9:30/10:00. Plan on taking my time to get to outpost. Stay overnight and then work up to Trail Camp the second day. Or depending how I feel the first day and with time, pushing on to Trail Camp the first day. Plan on going with the flow and listening to my body.

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#105619 - 07/17/23 03:49 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Bryan M]
GreggS Offline
Member

Registered: 07/17/23
Posts: 3
Loc: Ca
Ok - thanks. I plan on driving to parking lot at portal on Tuesday evening, sleeping at that altitude and beginning in the morning- probably around 8 am as I only have the one night permit for trail camp. I saw on some of the comments that it could take up to 8 or more hours to reach trailcamp and I want to be set up way before we start losing light. As for the next day and summit, hoping to bulk up with others in the early morning and tag along

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#105620 - 07/17/23 06:15 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: GreggS]
Bryan M Offline
Member

Registered: 06/17/23
Posts: 4
Loc: Minnesota
Very possible. I plan on starting to summit around 5:30am (whichever day it is) by the time I get some breakfast in, geared up, and marmot proof my stuff. It would be nice to hike with others.

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#105621 - 07/17/23 07:18 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: GreggS]
AndyC Offline
Member

Registered: 01/17/14
Posts: 42
Loc: Tehachapi, CA
An overnight Main Trail permit doesn't require you to complete the hike on the day following entry. If it takes 2-3 days that's fine. There used to be a 14 day window. All they really care about is the entry date.

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#105627 - 07/18/23 12:41 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: AndyC]
GreggS Offline
Member

Registered: 07/17/23
Posts: 3
Loc: Ca
That’s great to know - thank you

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#105632 - 07/19/23 10:42 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: GreggS]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Just talked with a young couple that finished the JMT , SLUSH on the chute , back side no problem ,forrester short section of snow/ice on the south side at the top but good track so they felt OK ,bugs bad in some areas but didn't sound as bad as past years at Wallace drainage.

PCT hikers saying they meet more JMT hikers going south ,these folks didn't think they were the first to finish.

They mentioned stream crossing but were able to cross some how?

Rain / downpour at the portal the last two days short periods but helped cool the area down.

Chute is very soft during the day so early start may help , but also leads to not finding the trail or path when the trail is snow covered .
Have a plan and stay in your group you know the one that can 't keep up or wants to meet some where later may cause a long wait when the connection is missed .They may also not make it down at all ?

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#105634 - 07/19/23 02:03 PM 18 Aug Day Hike, looking to join group [Re: Richard P.]
Steve H. Offline
Member

Registered: 07/17/23
Posts: 2
Loc: Las Vegas, NV
18 Aug day hike permit. I'm aiming for 15-16 hrs (I've done one other 14'er (Shasta), and the 17-mile out and back 12k mountain near me multiple times recently. I plan on starting at 1-2a. Never been to Whitney, not sure if the 2nd person in my party is going to make it, and I won't go if I have to hike alone. Any groups interested in another joining on the 18th? 50 yrs old, down to earth, and if I slow you down too much I'll just turn back, no problem. flash8016@yahoo.com if any takers...thanks!

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#105641 - 07/20/23 08:08 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
JaackieZzz Offline
Member

Registered: 07/20/23
Posts: 1
Loc: California
Hello Doug Sr. Could specify where to get that old trail route? Also which northly area you are referring to? If you have any photos to reference or on the map would be greatly appreciated!

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#105642 - 07/21/23 08:49 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: JaackieZzz]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Jaackie :The old trail out of the trail camp area stays in the draw where most of the tracks are coming up/down the chute , this trail was on the side of the rock area just to the right of the tracks . the new trail starts at the bottom of the slope at trail camp and works up the south'ly sloping area ( this is part of the melt out problem this slope is north facing and holds snow longer plus at the cable area it is very steep, a natural spring and a very sharp switchback at the end of the cable area that confuses people . At the end of the cable area it looks like the end of trail, a very steep step up to continue the trail.)
Now the north'ly area is right of the track from people going up the chute . You will see a rock band that starts just above the the bottom of the chute ,this band melts out since it is south facing and once the rock shows the sun works ,also this area is less steep than the south'ly area of the chute

Inyo County Sheriffs

try this link if it works expand the photo and you will see the tracks to the rock area and above. The rock will require some basic cross country skills . Scroll down to July 11 and see the slope

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#105644 - 07/22/23 09:26 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
First bear report for the season ,bear and tent story ,no food in the tent ?
Make sure you clean you car out and place all attractants in the lockers,Do not leave your packs out or unattended ,like at the bathroom or next to your car as you get ready .
If we have one bear now he/she has cousins,aunts and uncles and distance friend they can invite for dinner and snacks!
And history says they will take your Stuff tear up your car and poop on the way to the next free lunch .
The bears can only stay where a food source is available,natural food supply very limited on the east side so people tend to be the supply chain that at the end of the cycle the bear is shot.

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#105646 - 07/23/23 09:10 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
MAIN TRAIL CONDITIONS JULY 21-22:

Streams seem to be running a bit higher than when I was last here (July 9). Walking in water is essentially unavoidable in Bighorn Park.

Snow on the trail is no longer an issue until just above Mirror Lake. Snow bridge at the Mirror Lake outlet still there. But not many fresh footprints on it!

Consensus route is to still take the snow field exit off trail from ridge above Mirror Lake and follow it to Trail Crest. Many more rocks and exposed flowing water now seen on this snow route. Some areas seem to demand care on how weighted is distributed, if they are not avoided all together.

Lower switchbacks free of snow with water flowing from the spring at the 23rd switchback. Top of the Cables now finally exposed. No hiker seen on switchbacks.

Still no track established on massive Summit snow field covering trail after Keeler Needle.

Had nice chat with Ranger Chavez on patrol on Main Trail. Ranger Christine has had a lonely season at Crabtree so far, but there where finally four tents at Guitar Lake on July 21, an area completely blanketed by snow four weeks ago.

On the Summit met three hikers who just completed the Onion Valley to Mt Whitney hike. They said there were no obstacles hiking from Crabtree up to the junction with the Whitney Tail.

Both doors on Summit Shelter were open, so all three rooms can be checked out. The middle one contained a golf club! Any golf balls seen landing in the Portal Pond lately?

One of the outing highlights: Watching a small dog casually scurry across the (now 12) log crossing just before Lone Pine Lake. This spirited little fellow reminded me of the legendary dog Stickeen who accompanied John Muir in Alaska, an adventure Muir called "the most memorable of all my wild days."

Jim

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#105647 - 07/24/23 10:53 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
SebyT Offline
Member

Registered: 06/16/23
Posts: 4
Loc: San Francisco Bay Area
Mountaineers Route full video (12 minutes) from trailhead to summit. June 2023

https://youtu.be/eHl-VW0DPgY

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#105648 - 07/24/23 11:57 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Marmot John Offline
Member

Registered: 04/12/23
Posts: 8
Loc: Earth
Here's a complete hike from Portal to Outpost as of 7/14/23 at 5x speed (normal speed at water crossing). Had a Crazy Jack sighting! (And a ranger checking permits too!)

[video:youtube]https://youtu.be/ZsaMSJKgdn0[/video]

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#105651 - 07/25/23 01:49 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Marmot John]
AFM Offline
Member

Registered: 05/25/23
Posts: 7
Loc: RIO VISTA, CA
Thanks. Great info. We are starting on Tuesday 8/1 and hope to summit on Thursday 8/3. Chances seem to be slim but it will be a great experience regardless.

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#105652 - 07/25/23 06:25 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
DayHiker Offline
Member

Registered: 06/11/03
Posts: 37
Loc: Burlingame, CA
I just canceled my day hike permit for August 9, 2023. It should appear on recreation.gov soon. (Sigh ...)

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#105656 - 07/27/23 08:00 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: DayHiker]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Road work on the Portal Rd A Detour is in place so follow the arrows , one or two tricks first avoid the Tuttle creek canyon and use Lubken this is a road 5 miles s/o Lone Pine ( saves about 12-15 miles) The turn is at the 2 R/V parks follow this to Horseshoe Meadow and turn right to Whitney Portal Road then left to the Portal.
If you are in town follow the badly marked detour signs up the Tuttle Creek road to Sunset then turn right on Sunset for 1 long block then right on Horseshoe Meadow road where the sign says Lower Whitney Portal road closed ( road is open to the Alabama Hills Movie road then closed going lower) .

Problem County is short of signs and number of closed roads

Watch for oncoming traffic on both of these routes very narrow and blind curves. HONK at the blind corners!!!!!


Edited by Doug Sr (07/27/23 08:22 AM)

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#105659 - 07/28/23 07:42 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jim F]
jeff_tahoe Offline
Member

Registered: 07/28/23
Posts: 3
Loc: United States
Thank you @Jim F and everyone for your updates.
As it's really warm and the conditions tend to change very quickly when you start having exposed rocks and thin snow, I'm curious if there is a recent update on the conditions? We will be on the mountain this Sunday/Monday.

Have the switchbacks opened up?

Thank you all!

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#105660 - 07/28/23 11:46 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: jeff_tahoe]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Many years conditions are like we have now , spring conditions , some can do the switchbacks, some can and do climb the face routes and as always it is not the conditions it is the experience of the person doing the hike.
Long sections of the switchbacks are snow free, short sections are snow and ice covered plus adds several miles vs the chute. in the chute a rock band is melting out but this rock band requires cross country travel experience and a transition at the top and bottom onto snow

Now many are showing up with Mall wear soft clown type trail runners , experienced folks may risk using these and do OK but when we hear people putting crampons on these or spikes we tend to think this may not turn out well.

We may have warm days and nights above freezing but a breeze and cloud cover can turn the upper section of the chute to a hard surface , we also hear people talking sliding down getting into the existing butt tracks and can't stop before hitting the rocks at the bottom, again this area will be where we have the next few accidents and a fatal accident in this area can happen.

Jim writes great reports with detailed information on the areas of concern, he also hints at changing conditions (these are often between morning and night ) If you are not a seasoned winter hiker , Whitney will be a challange, many will make the summit with the current conditions , using little gear and doing about everything a seasoned climber would not do. That's (The Whitney Experience! ) year after year.

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#105661 - 07/28/23 12:51 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
AFM Offline
Member

Registered: 05/25/23
Posts: 7
Loc: RIO VISTA, CA
Thanks Doug SR.

We are driving down Sunday and will be at the Portal on Monday to check out the Old Trailhead route (to avoid fording Lone Pine Creek)
and do a day hike to Lone Pine Lake. Our permit is for entry Tuesday 8/1. We hope to make it to the Trail Camp area that day. Wednesday is an acclimitization day going down to Consultation Lake and possibly checking out the lower of the 99 switchbacks. Then attempt the summit on Thursday 8/3. But if it looks too difficult or dangerous we would turn around and come back next year. We have microspikes and ice axes but no direct experience with either.

Hopefully we will be able to talk directly with you and others.at your Portal store on Monday for some up to date advice.

Thanks,

Marcia and Al

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#105666 - 07/29/23 12:13 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
jeff_tahoe Offline
Member

Registered: 07/28/23
Posts: 3
Loc: United States
Doug Sr,
Thank you for the response. I share your concern in these variable conditions that currently exist. I'm just looking for all the beta I can get before leaving. Of course you have to make the right decisions based on the conditions when you are on the mountain. I've summited 10k, 11k, and 12k peaks in the Sierras this year, as well as turned around on some.

Jim's last great report was a week ago and seem to be about every week (amazing Jim, thanks!). I was curious if there was an updated report.

Thank you all for taking the time to share with the group.

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#105667 - 07/29/23 03:31 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: jeff_tahoe]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Reports today of a few people try the switchbcks but most still using the chute
Cable area is the tricky area , steep and exposed at the upper end of the cable area the trail makes a sharp turn and often this requires climbing up to join switchbacks above (climbing) steeper than the chute with a long fall line to the boulder field below.

It was 60 in the Portal this AM so the upper part of the chute could be stiff for the first hours of light.

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#105668 - 07/30/23 07:39 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Did a quick poll the last hour at the store which route did you take chute 7 switchbacks 4 one group up the chute down the switchbacks.Looks like a trail is starting around the cable area and the long to switchback before trailcrest.
Still exposure around the cable area that gear is needed

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#105670 - 07/31/23 10:32 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Noticed that Rec.gov has W (Walk-up) listed on the site...

Has the FS gone back to walk-in permits for cancellations (wouldn't that be wonderful)???

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#105671 - 08/01/23 05:54 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Wtny n1. Offline
Member

Registered: 01/29/03
Posts: 256
We can only wish. I understand you still have to go thru Rec.gov and buy the permit again. Richard don't get me started on this.

crazy jack

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#105672 - 08/01/23 06:49 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Wtny n1.]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
You want to storm the VC and do a Peaceful Sit-In?

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#105673 - 08/01/23 07:47 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Wtny n1. Offline
Member

Registered: 01/29/03
Posts: 256

count me in

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#105674 - 08/01/23 08:37 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Wtny n1.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
So the 2 guys that have over 400 Whitney trips feel cheated they can't get more days?
Main problem people not canceling,

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#105678 - 08/01/23 05:10 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Of course...we're old and I'm grumpy...

Maybe 600+ trips if you count the FAILURES (that were fun anyway)...

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#105679 - 08/01/23 05:35 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
tcrabb Offline
Member

Registered: 08/01/23
Posts: 1
Loc: Arizona
I have a permit for two for 8/11 and 8/12 with an overnight at Trail Camp. My buddy had to back out, so I have a spare slot if anyone would like to tag along. I’m hoping to do the switchbacks. I’m 52 and haven’t been up a mountain like this in a while, but have climbed several via more technical routes in the past. I won’t be trying to put my micro spikes on flip flops, but I’m also not going to attempt things I’m not comfortable with. If that doesn’t scare you off, send me an email at Titus.crabb@gmail.com.

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#105684 - 08/02/23 09:28 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Jonas Offline
Member

Registered: 08/02/23
Posts: 1
Loc: CA, USA
Hi all! My gf and I have a permit for this Saturday 8/5, and it will be our first time on Whitney. We were originally hoping to summit on 8/6 after camping at Trail Camp, but we were unaware until recently about the extent of the snow conditions this year. I was hoping to get the most up-to-date report about what all would be required to attempt to summit this weekend. We have microspikes and poles, we're in good shape, but we would still need to get axes if those are still a necessity at the moment. Any insight on the current accessibility of chute vs. switchbacks and whether axes are still mandatory? We are flexible to the idea of not reaching summit if we are uncomfortable with the conditions, so it would also be nice to hear if anyone has a favorite hike/destination to check out if summiting is not accessible for us. Thanks!

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#105686 - 08/02/23 12:26 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jonas]
Ohikero Offline
Member

Registered: 04/27/23
Posts: 6
Loc: Ohio
From reading reports elsewhere, most to all are using the 99 on the way up, and many on the way down as well. The current consensus is there are still 3-4 winter traverses where spikes/poles/ice axe are helpful if not required. Those can still be quite dangerous until they melt out some more. Great caution is being advised on those traverses, especially near the cables.
Bouldering near the summit still required as well.

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#105689 - 08/03/23 09:55 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Ohikero]
mmouser Offline
Member

Registered: 08/02/23
Posts: 2
Loc: California
I'm climbing Whitney tomorrow 8/4. I brought Kahtoola MICROspikes and poles, but do you think it would be safer to purchase an ice axe (need one eventually anyways) and rent crampons from Elevation Sierra Adventure, assuming they fit my boots? Also curious if anyone has glissaded the chute recently and what that's looking like. thanks

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#105695 - 08/07/23 03:57 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Ohikero]
Ohikero Offline
Member

Registered: 04/27/23
Posts: 6
Loc: Ohio
Hoping someone in the know can answer this--we have 2 one-day permits for Aug 22nd, but would like to add a 3rd, my oldest son would love to go too. If we can snag another permit from someone, would he have to hike with that group, or could he go with us? Is it even legal to transfer/sell permits? Don't want to get up to Trail Camp or so just to have a ranger turn us around...

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#105696 - 08/07/23 04:05 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Ohikero]
CBWT Offline
Member

Registered: 07/25/23
Posts: 2
Loc: Florida
To my best understanding the permit holder MUST be with the group. There is a way to set a primary and alternate permit holder so there may be a way to "transfer" a permit that way.

I also believe that groups can walk together but they cannot be larger than 15 people.

Rangers are everywhere and strict. You can call the ranger station and ask them directly to get an honest, correct answer.

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#105699 - 08/07/23 08:01 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
Went up the Main Trail yesterday (Aug 6) and took the Switchbacks. As Doug Sr has noted, the Switchbacks have been "open" for two weeks. Yesterday they were exhibiting the form one would expect in the middle of Summer.

Four small patches of snow cross the trail, but only one remains significant. It crosses a steep snowfield towering above the west end of Trailside Meadow.

The Trail Crew has done a nice job cleaning up the debris left covering the Trail after last winter. There is evidence horses had been up the Trail helping the workers by carrying supplies. These helpers are not seen much anymore on the Main Trail.

Stream crossings are now much lower than just two weeks ago.

Looking from the Summit, one realizes the acceleration in the disappearance of snow across the Range. But still only one pack was seen stashed where the JMT and the Main Trail meet on the back side, as opposed to at least a dozen packs one would normally see in mid Summer.

On the Summit, I talked to several hikers who had camped the night before at Trail Camp. They had originally planned on hiking up the Switchbacks, summiting, and then glissading down the Chute to Trail Camp. However, their plans had changed after witnessing events from their campsites the day before. Apparently, a glissade down the Chute had gone bad. The subsequent emergency helicopter evacuation was a reality check. (Note: On my ascent and descent the following day, I saw no takers for ascending or descending the Chute.)

If one returns to the original post three months ago by Richard P (Aril 3) on the topic Whitney 2023, the change in conditions Whitney Portal has experienced is impressive.

Jim

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#105700 - 08/08/23 05:59 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jim F]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Thanks for the reports Jim...
I'm going to start a Go Fund Me so we can start getting some photos posted from you (assuming you're still running the disposables, instead of digital, or smart phone...)

Some random comments:

Who'd have thought that this late into summer, I still haven't made an appearance on the summit of Whitney...

The Trail Crews weren't in sight on the PCT (south of Cottonwood Pass) for the first time in nearly (maybe over) 2 months...there were surveyors flags on the ground in a "climb" (NoBo) that is still rutted, so maybe they'll be back...

Based on the crowds at both Onion Valley a few days ago and Horseshow Meadows yesterday, I'd say the word is out...even saw a (honest...I'd have gone over CP anyway) group going up Trail Pass, so Cottonwood must be "selling out."

There was a Rescue Vehicle up in the HM parking lot...

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#105701 - 08/10/23 12:05 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Jammer Offline
Member

Registered: 04/01/13
Posts: 2
Loc: North Carolina
Thanks for the updates everyone. Hoping we get a few more reports before next week. We are set to hit the trail on 8/15. I have a decade of experience on the main trail and a few runs up the MR to above the E-ledges, but this is the first time for me with such prominent snow this late in the summer.

I know enough to turn back if the conditions exceed our comfort level, but I'm really hoping we are lucky enough to get just enough melting to get through the tricky areas like the cable section, etc. Hopefully, there will be some good updates from late week/weekend attempts to gauge our chances.

Good luck to everyone headed for the trail over the next few days!

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#105702 - 08/10/23 01:39 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jammer]
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
Jammer,

Based on what I observed on a day hike on the Main Trail 4 days ago (Aug 6), the Trail is now experiencing normal summer conditions, with the following exceptions:

(1) The Trail does a short traverse (maybe 30 yards)across a steep snow field at the west end of Trailside Meadow. On Aug 6, a skid down the snow field could have resulted injury. This patch of snow on the Trail will likely melt out soon.

(2) Avoiding the large summit snow field just past the Keeler Needle requires an easy (but somewhat tedious) 100 yard rock scramble. The scramble is "safe", provided some of the boulders are tested before loading.

On Aug 15, more problematic than residual snow might be the weather conditions. Currently, there seems to be some chance of rain, snow, and thunder. Of course, those conditions are not unusual on the Mountain in the summer. Even with a forecast for clear weather in the summer, on a day hike I carry some rain gear and have a plan for spending the night on the Mountain (if needed).

Have a great hike!

Jim

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#105703 - 08/10/23 03:48 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jim F]
Marmot John Offline
Member

Registered: 04/12/23
Posts: 8
Loc: Earth
Hi Jim, what about this snow bridge I've heard about a few times, I -believe- it is near Trailside Meadow, is that still a thing? For some reason, the area I am always most uncomfortable in is that area just above that meadow, so I'm really hoping (praying) for a mostly dry walk down around August 24th (coming up and over from Guitar Lake).

Did you consider the cables to be pretty safe and at any time did you switch into a traction device?

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#105704 - 08/10/23 04:23 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Marmot John]
Jammer Offline
Member

Registered: 04/01/13
Posts: 2
Loc: North Carolina
Yeah, I had a similar question to Marmot John. I was surprised that the cable section wasn't on your list of differences from normal summer conditions. If I had to guess from my past experience, that would be the spot I was most worried about.

I know the weather is always a wild card this time of year, especially in the afternoon. Will watch that closely and try to manage as early a start as possible.

Good luck to everyone planning for hikes in the coming days.

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#105705 - 08/10/23 04:37 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Marmot John]
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
Marmot John,

If you follow the Main Trail, no snow bridges will be encountered.

The area you are always most uncomfortable about above the meadow is likely the steep snow patch one crosses currently hovering above the west end of Trailside Meadow (which I mention in my recent post today). It bothered me too, and it was the only place I put my micro spikes on during the Aug 6 hike. The snow there was rock solid on the ascent and slushy and slippery on the descent. The runout looked nasty. I would guess it will be a non-issue when you descend in two weeks.

On August 6, passing by the Cables predominantly involved walking on a well-designed dry rock path inside the cables. But future snowfall and water seeping from the wall and melting snow turning to ice at night can be game changers. Also I noted a small recent partial collapse (exfoliation?) of the wall at the beginning of Cable passage on ascent. Hopefully, the area remains stable.

BTW, from the west the Trail up from Crabtree looked great! I hope to be coming up that way myself soon.

Jim

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#105706 - 08/11/23 04:47 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jim F]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
So the afternoon thunderstorm got here last night , we have had drops today but very little , cold for this time of the summer 52 this am and 60 right now so upper elevation could see black ice overnight.
Trail condition are down to one short snow section and most are saying no problem. But history says some will not like even this short section!

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#105712 - 08/15/23 01:16 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
ClimbSTRONG Offline
Member

Registered: 06/05/07
Posts: 248
Loc: Aptos, California, USA
I'm looking for any beta from climbers who went up over the weekend. Especially information on the condition of the switchbacks Good to go without traction devices and an ice axe?
Thanks!!
_________________________
climbSTRONG
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing" -Helen Keller

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#105720 - 08/17/23 04:38 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: ClimbSTRONG]
ClimbSTRONG Offline
Member

Registered: 06/05/07
Posts: 248
Loc: Aptos, California, USA
As time goes on, in regards to our overnight climb Tuesday & Wednesday, it's going to be more about what the storm brings on Sunday & Monday than what conditions were like last weekend!
_________________________
climbSTRONG
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing" -Helen Keller

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#105724 - 08/18/23 10:47 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: ClimbSTRONG]
Jen Ch Hiker Offline
Member

Registered: 09/30/21
Posts: 6
Loc: CA
Hi, can someone post info on what the trail conditions on Whitney (main trail) are like following the storm next week which is supposed to bring in more snow? How are the switchbacks and snow crossings? Are crampons needed or microspikes sufficient?

Thanks,
Janet

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#105726 - 08/18/23 11:56 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jen Ch Hiker]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Snow the third week of August is a normal event, light amount and will not stick for long , the rock and ground at the lower elevation helps , But we have had snow coming off the trees often that people don't wait for the drop before starting the hike. this is often several hours after sun up and the trees shed the snow. Ok so you can trick the tree snow but then you will need to deal with the black ice, cold and dark.

This system for me is a wait till it hits land , we watch the path and the amount of rain hundreds of miles away ,we are often missed by storms or get very little but the storms that have caused the most damage in our canyon had no warnings.
The mall wear gear will not keep you dry,trail runners and shorts season if ever a season is over our nights will get colder and the day light less so at some point you will be hiking in the dark . My choice is start the hike in the light turn around if a storm moves in and you know that slow person you left behind bring them down with you. Lastly get the car keys !!!

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#105727 - 08/18/23 01:03 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
mmouser Offline
Member

Registered: 08/02/23
Posts: 2
Loc: California
Very interested to see what this storm brings for Whitney. Lone Pine is currently forecasted to be directly hit by the remnants of the hurricane, and Mountain Forecast has the freezing and could see 4+ inches of precip, and Mountain Forecast has the freezing level at 14-15k feet during the storm. If it's a direct hit and freezing levels are low enough, we could see feet of snow near the summit.

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#105734 - 08/21/23 08:48 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: mmouser]
Matt Z Offline
Member

Registered: 05/04/23
Posts: 5
Loc: Massachusetts
Yes I'm also very curiuos to see how much the summit actually recieved.

There was much disagreement between NOAA and Mountain Forecast, with MF showing as much as 14-18" on Sunday night at 14k, but NOAA forecasted all rain.

I suspect the snowline was very high and that the accumulation was sharply different between 12k and 14.5k. Curious to know if the summit actually had a foot or more, or if it was all slush.

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#105736 - 08/21/23 10:00 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Matt Z]
Jen Ch Hiker Offline
Member

Registered: 09/30/21
Posts: 6
Loc: CA
Hi, I actually want to hike Whitney very soon despite the recent storm/snow. My husband is concerned about avalanche risk due to the new snowfall.

Can someone shed light on this as well?

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#105737 - 08/21/23 10:13 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Jen Ch Hiker]
Wedgy Offline
Member

Registered: 08/05/17
Posts: 9
Loc: California
When the weather clears you should get an idea from the various webcams, at ~11,000 feet mammoth did not get snow. Nothing like live data from the mountain though.
https://www.climbingweather.com/area/1070/detail/USA/California/Mt.-Whitney-%7C-Iceberg-Lake
https://www.gbuapcd.org/cgi-bin/cameraVi...n&Coso+South=on

https://www.mammothmountain.com/on-the-mountain/mammoth-webcam

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#105740 - 08/21/23 03:06 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Wedgy]
Marmot John Offline
Member

Registered: 04/12/23
Posts: 8
Loc: Earth
I'm going to go with the theory of not much impactful snow falling in this event. I just saw a couple videos of the Whitney Portal parking lot and there's an absolutely insane amount of water flowing down right now, which gives me hope that what happened up there is in mostly liquid form and is going to come down immediately. Hopefully the snow that did fall is going to be the powdery stuff that melts fast. I saw a new trip report of a few hikers that just exited at Kearsarge and just reported hail, I don't recall any mention of snow, so hopefully we are good at least up to 12,000 feet.

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#105741 - 08/21/23 04:12 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Marmot John]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
A quick update the big picture 395
Closed from Ridgecrest to Bishop
Runoff still strong so stream crossing will be deep and wide.
No one came down today and could cover so we can't get a view of the mountain.
I hear it is clearing. What would that mean,if you are not prepared for these conditions....
Campgrounds are closed,road to the Portal is open but sections of mud,recall 395 closed.We will get rock fall on the road as the ground dries out.
The county road crews are working on the roads so watch for equipment .Horseshoe Meadow Road Closed
Check caltrans for State roads and Inyo County road up dates.

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#105742 - 08/21/23 04:26 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
395 just opened!


Edited by Doug Sr (08/21/23 04:26 PM)

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#105746 - 08/22/23 08:36 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Matt Z Offline
Member

Registered: 05/04/23
Posts: 5
Loc: Massachusetts
Glad to hear that Doug!

Clouds are just starting to clear on the webcam and it's pretty much confirmed - no significant new snowfall at the summit. The MR Couloir looks like old snow to me.

Just trying to calibrate my trust in Mountain Forecast. They were calling for 14+ inches on Sunday at 14k which clearly was off a bit. Not cold enough. Would have been epic if it was a month or two later perhaps.

Overall, good news for the late season permit holders. Best of luck with the roads Doug et. al.!

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#105747 - 08/22/23 09:39 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Matt Z]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
On the weather topic ,read I think it was a Kurt Vonnegut book when he writes about the Mafia doing a fix on a chemical plant was dumping waste into a river after all the millions of work if you looked close you could still see the pipe dumping the waste into the river,
Noaa Weather 7 day forecast close on temps and wind I would never trust a weather report to pack the gear for a trip. My rule is expect the very worst... in the dark and a whiteout on the way out, never venture out without the core gear to keep yourself alive.

Now fresh snow showing on the top of the switchback area and the NF chute is covered to the notch most likely this new snow will clear quickly. Crampons work very well on hard packed snow and ice , this snow is not hard and not packed, mountaineering boots work well in these conditions. Hillsound type cleats may help , most often hikers don't adjust the pace to match the conditions , a short step gives more control on the surface than a long stride, coming down is often the problem area , poles will aide in reducing the downward pressure .

The streams are still running high but got word the logs are back in place and avoid the first (3) water crossing now 3 because the small drainage has jumed the bank near the trailhead then the Carillion creek third the North Fork proper.

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#105749 - 08/25/23 11:32 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
ClimbSTRONG Offline
Member

Registered: 06/05/07
Posts: 248
Loc: Aptos, California, USA
I was up Tuesday/Wednesday, 22nd/23rd and the CCC crews were hard at work. I cannot express my gratitude enough for the work that they do, especially getting the logs back in place basically the day after the storm. And they had to get into the creek to do that. A very high creek.
On Tuesday, using creativity in some instances, I was able to make it to Trail Camp with dry feet (and back down again on Wed). The new snow is absolutely no problem now on the Main Trail and I was able to cross the few remaining snowfield without spikes, although a couple in our group opted for the security that they offer. The Mountaineer's Route may be another story. I looked down the Final 400 and it's very steep, all snow. It appears that snow has loaded up at the top, making the final section very close to vertical. I spoke to a guy who climbed the East Buttress, one of 4 groups that he was with to do so. The looked down the Final 400 and opted to take the Main Trail down and return to Iceberg Lake the next day to retrieve their camp! The weather forecast ahead looks great, but as Doug says "prepare for the worst". I predict lots of summits for the foreseeable future!
Gary
_________________________
climbSTRONG
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing" -Helen Keller

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#105750 - 08/25/23 11:36 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Matt Z]
ClimbSTRONG Offline
Member

Registered: 06/05/07
Posts: 248
Loc: Aptos, California, USA
I would not be surprised if a foot of snow fell on Sunday and melted/blew/was rained away quickly. I went up Muir on Wednesday and there was easily 5 to 7 inches left in protected places on the slope up to the rock climb.
_________________________
climbSTRONG
"Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. Life is either a daring adventure or nothing" -Helen Keller

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#105753 - 08/28/23 05:23 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: ClimbSTRONG]
Strider Offline
Member

Registered: 08/02/14
Posts: 24
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
On the subject of storms and trail conditions, I saw a picture of the Whitney Portal Road after the Hilary TS rolled through. Some 100 feet of road was badly torn up by the expected flash flood through the lower canyon. Has the road been repaired? Or is vehicle access to the Portal via Lubken Canyon Rd the way to go?

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#105754 - 08/28/23 07:09 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Strider]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
There is still a Detour in place...

Looks like there are 2 different routes...Lubken and thru the Alabama Hills.

BTW, Hillary didn't do much damage up at Horseshow Meadows. I did the Trail Pass / Cottonwood Pass Loop again and didn't encounter anything but (real) minor rutting on the PCT and the trails up and down...

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#105755 - 08/29/23 08:08 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
paul Offline
Member

Registered: 12/23/02
Posts: 567
Loc: Santa Clarita, CA
Richard, so the road to Horseshoe Meadows is open? I noticed that Inyo County Roads still shows Onion Valley Road as closed. Have you been there recently?

paul

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#105756 - 08/29/23 10:04 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: paul]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Horseshoe Meadows Road was open. I was in a car, so no gate crashing yesterday...

I haven't been up to Onion Valley recently.

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#105757 - 08/29/23 01:20 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
paul Offline
Member

Registered: 12/23/02
Posts: 567
Loc: Santa Clarita, CA
A car!!!!

I didn't know you owned a car....just a motorcycle.

paul

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#105759 - 08/30/23 05:16 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
GoalHikingMeetup Offline
Member

Registered: 08/30/23
Posts: 2
Loc: Los Angeles
I don't know if this is the best place, but I have 3 spots free on a day hike permit for Weds 9/6/23. It will be a sloooooowwww hike and I'll probably turn around at some point (you can continue on). I'd like to do the Mountaineer's Route if anyone has experience with that, otherwise the main trail.

Please DM me if interested or see my meetup group for the listing.

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#105760 - 08/31/23 08:40 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: GoalHikingMeetup]
tif Offline
Member

Registered: 04/15/09
Posts: 155
Loc: colton, ca
FYI the mountaineers route still requires full mountaineering gear for the upper portion (helmet, ice ax, full crampons). If you do not have experience with these things, I'd strongly recommend waiting for a lower snow year to attack the mountaineers route.

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#105762 - 09/01/23 09:00 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: tif]
GoalHikingMeetup Offline
Member

Registered: 08/30/23
Posts: 2
Loc: Los Angeles
So far no one's taken me up on the offer anyway. Before the snow chute (I guess around 12,500' or 13k') is it just low/no exposure 3rd class or is there anything with exposure?

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#105763 - 09/01/23 09:22 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: GoalHikingMeetup]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Based on a post I saw that repeated info from SMS (Kurt Wedberg), the Final 400' is really technical right now...

If you want to see the North Fork, and want to see the summit, you can cross Whitney / Russell col (above Iceberg), go down the Arctic Lakes Drainage to the JMT, summit via the JMT and head home via the Main Trail...

Slow-and-steady wouldn't be a problem...it's about the same mileage as an up-and-down on the Main Trail...Tougher from a physical standpoint because of the XC terrain...

You can search my photo albums...I've done it a bunch of times (most recently last Autumn)...

https://piotrowski.smugmug.com/Whats-New-1/Around-Whitney-100922/


Trying to answer your question...

There is some 3rd Class on the headwall up to Iceberg Lake...

People are climbing the East Face and Buttress routes, so I'd assume you can stay left, instead of entering the Couloir, on easy 3rd Class climbing (above Iceberg)...

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#105779 - 10/01/23 08:04 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Well it did cold air mass a little snow/sleet/rain but wind very mild,first system came Friday night ,hours before expected and we had periods of sun ,low clouds not doing much and this afternoon light snow level about 9500' .
We were weeks overdue for a system so this could start our normal fall weather 7-10 days apart and each system adding to the upper elevation coverage.
Things of concern now are short hours of light,very cold upper elevation and icy patches at random,trip down can be tricky over slick rock.
Moving one can stay warm but stops can be very cold quickly.Don't wait to add layers if you stop for a break,watch for your water source to freeze and have a back up water container.
Our hours as always for Oct 9 AM to 6 PM and last order form the grill 5:30 PM we have limited seating inside.
Jacket and snacks!

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#105785 - 10/08/23 03:50 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
tareach Offline
Member

Registered: 10/07/23
Posts: 3
Loc: CA
Good afternoon Doug Sr.

Posted in another thread as well and wanted to reach out to you and see if anyone has hiked Whitney in the past week and made it all the way to the top?

Any information on the conditions? Any would be greatly appreciated.

I hiked Whitney several years ago and going to do it again this Friday.



Thank you very much.

Todd

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#105787 - 10/08/23 08:49 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: tareach]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Yes hikers making the summit daily ,some icy patches cold nights and today a freak system pasted through ,ten drops in the Portal but summit reports some snow . Spokesman least suggested by many and poles

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#105818 - 11/11/23 10:17 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Finally made it to the summit this year...


I've lost track, but I think this is 193...


Here are a couple more photos of the conditions:






So, in my opinion, the Trail is trivial except for 3 places...
1. The Cables...you can do it without gear by staying (mostly) on rock, with a hand on the cable.
2. The last Switchback...there is about 150' of rotten ice (that won't melt out until next year - maybe) that is really sketchy...
3. The Summit Snowfield...if you make the mistake of trying to stay with the Trail as it traverses to the north side of the summit plateau, you're (again) going to be on rotten, sun cupped, ice...The better route (I think Jim mentioned this in one of his posts) is to look for 2 Cairns just after passing under Keeler and head up on this use trail to the summit.


So, my story...
I wasn't planning on Whitney...I left home late, thinking I'd do another 11 miler at Horseshoe...get near Lone Pine and there's a detour sign on 395, warning about WP Rood...OK, I need to figure this out so I don't waste time when I do head up for a climb...I'll head up the Trail for about 3 hours to see how it looks...I was feeling better than expected, so now the summit thoughts take over...made Trail Camp in 3...still feeling good...OK, 2:30 is the drop down time...any mile over 45 ends the attempt...make Trail Crest at about 1...still on track...slowest mile is a 37...

Truly amazed...I've only done 10k at about 7k and 11 miles at 11k recently...made the summit in about 6 and the round trip in about 11...cut on my head (slip on ice), a sore tail bone (slip on ice and gravel) and left shin (slip on gravel).

BTW, this does get classified as STUPID...heading up Whitney with no gear at this time of year...What's that saying about I'd Rather Be Lucky Than GOOD...?


BTW, I'd call the mountain Packed...while driving out of the Portal, I'd say half the lot was full...

BTW2, there's still cut wood available down at the Turn-out for anyone looking for free pine...

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#105819 - 11/12/23 07:46 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
CatB Offline
Member

Registered: 03/04/12
Posts: 65
Loc: modjeska
Thanks for that TR Richard!
I'm heading up this morning for a couple of days before it starts snowing again. Don't know if I'll get on the Whitney Trail. Maybe NAP. & I like the Cottonwood-Trail Pass loop also. My high peak this year has been Humphrey's in AZ 2x in recent weeks. It's been a challenging summer to say the least!

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#105820 - 11/12/23 09:05 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: CatB]
paul Offline
Member

Registered: 12/23/02
Posts: 567
Loc: Santa Clarita, CA
Richard, good to see you back on the mountain. You belong there.

Paul

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#105821 - 11/12/23 09:39 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: paul]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
From NWS:
First Significant Storm of the Wet Season Nov 15-17

Looks like my plan to get a few in after Quota Season may not work out...

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#105825 - 11/15/23 12:26 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Snow on Thor...
Season ending?

Hey Doug, can you let us know if any of the gates get locked?

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#105826 - 11/15/23 06:12 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Good question you know after the trips up last winter walking past the gates I don't recall closed or locked, the snow was so deep low down conditions closed the road , Then the lower gate was closed for the seasonal clearing but I can't recall when.
Cayden and I made our last drive up to check the store some time in Dec. after that the nice walk up the road. I recall you and I made a walk up , that was the last easy one snow got deeper and the track rutted and when the track was gone very hard travel without snowshoes or skins. ( 20 minutes from wher the track ended at the trailhead bathroom to the store) .
I will keep you posted.


Hey I might add it was taking about 2-2 1/2 hours to do the up the road section Cayden was making it in about 45 minutes , Doug on skins about 1 1/2 hour I would say heavy winter pack plan on 2 hours plus stay in the track and watch for rock fall as you go up stay on the left side of the road if you are making a track,most small rocks stop about mid road boulders will cross the road but at least you have a chance to hear them coming and get behind the guard rail or stop until they settle. Spring melt and wind are the problem periods, I also say stay clear of the NRT above Meysan creek area one trip I counted 10 small slides started from either snow loading or rockfall over the trail.From the cabin area up conditions are somewhat stable.

Hey it's winte rseason bring a jacket and snacks!


Edited by Doug Sr (11/15/23 06:27 PM)

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#105843 - 12/19/23 09:56 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Ok so the first snow yesterday , very light and is sticking at about 9500' . Watch the webcam for coverage , most systems will have wind , wind is more of a problem than snow, drifting and loading,and added wind chill ( my thoughts if you have wind gear ,and can stay covered wind chill isn't a factor but exposed skin is always a problem,face area hard to protect.)
Winter hiking is very slow and making a trail is hard work solo travel means breaking trail will limit your distance traveled a day , a group can rotate breaking trail and move as a team still hard work. I recall a trip we had planned around end of October , heavy snow year our group of 3 meet a group of 4 that was training for some big mountain we teamed up and was able to get above the cable area before eveyone had had enough "training" we quit and went back down.
Summits in the winter add several days say at least plan for 4 days and longer if benighted by storms.



Edited by Doug Sr (12/19/23 09:56 AM)

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#105844 - 12/23/23 07:38 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Doug Sr Offline


Member

Registered: 12/16/02
Posts: 2955
Loc: Whitney
Road Closed sign up now ,upper gate should be closed also ,snow the last few days ,upper elevation looks like a good coverage.
Check the webcam for snow coverage,and the Baldy topic the winter challenge has started.

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#105847 - 12/27/23 05:37 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Doug Sr]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
What happened to the big sign...when I rode up, there was only a dinky, little, sign that was easy to miss...

The Horseshoe Meadows Road is closed at the lowest gate:



The Road Crews piled some dirt up at the spot that I used to use to bypass the gate...


There were cars all the way up at the Portal parking spots, but I stopped where the "dry" ground ended:




A few comments:
- Boot track up to Lone Pine Lake was really good...including up the Old Trail...
- More women than men on the trail...
- A couple of women that I talked to had continued on up to the Whitney Zone Sign area and said the snow was significantly deeper (snowshoes might be good beyond there)...
- All of this will be irrelevant in the next few days...


Here are a few photos:








North Fork Stream Crossing...






Logs crossing...



Lone Pine Lake Junction...

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#105848 - 12/27/23 09:15 PM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Jim F Offline
Member

Registered: 12/22/02
Posts: 544
Loc: California
Doug and Richard,

Thanks for the recent posts. I finally can accept that Winter has arrived on the Mountain.

Have a great 2024!

Jim

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#105849 - 12/30/23 06:03 AM Re: Whitney - 2023 [Re: Richard P.]
Richard P. Offline
Member

Registered: 06/26/03
Posts: 5228
Loc: Ridgecrest, CA
Last post to this thread for me...


Ever wonder why the lower section of Whitney Portal Road is closed?






Here are a few more photos of the conditions on the Trail:


Entering the Zone...


Switchbacks up to Bighorn Park...



Outpost Camp...
There is running water here...



Switchbacks up to Mirror Lake...
I did encounter a little sunshine...



My highpoint at about 11,100'...
This is the switchback that brings you onto the exposed ridge to Trailside Meadow. The wind and spin were pretty horrendous...



Looking up mountain...
Encountered a climber heading down...He stated that they (group of 3...don't know where the other 2 were...) made it to The Cables before heading down because of sketchy conditions...



There was a bit of snow on the WPS...


Good way to end the year on Whitney...Whitney showing who's Boss...didn't do anywhere near the amount of climbing I thought I'd do...

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Moderator:  Bob R, Doug Sr 
Mt. Whitney Weather Links


White Mountain/
Barcroft Station

Elev 12,410’

Upper Tyndall Creek
Elev 11,441’

Crabtree Meadows
Elev 10,700’

Cottonwood Lakes
Elev 10,196’

Lone Pine
Elev. 3,727’

Hunter Mountain
Elev. 6,880’

Death Valley/
Furnace Creek

Elev. -193’