For those of you interested in trying to climb the Main Mt. Whitney Trail (MMWT) this spring you should be aware of current conditions, and more importantly how to interpret those conditions to help you decide how to make decisions with safety in mind.
Snow is now present on Mt. Whitney and it will not melt away until late spring or early summer. You can count on negotiating a snow covered trail from approximately 10,500’ until Trail Crest. From the cables until Trail Crest there are hazardous areas where a slip can turn into a fall that can lead to an injury or fatality. This section is commonly referred to as the “97 Switchbacks”. It is still likely we will receive more spring storms. If the area receives more storms you can count on snow lower and higher on the route.
Given these conditions there are certain things to keep in mind if you decide to attempt climbing Mt. Whitney via the MMWT. This list is not exhaustive but is a good place to start:
(1) Recognize that your ascent will take longer than it would when the trail is dry. Plan extra time into your itinerary to account for this.
(2) The 97 Switchbacks are covered in snow. Most people ascend and descend the chute/slope adjacent to the Switchbacks on the west. The Switchbacks will get “kicked in” eventually as more people walk on it. After that happens the snow will turn hard and slick where people have stepped.
(3a) Realize that current conditions require climbers to have learned and practiced several mountaineering skills which include self arrest with an ice axe (this is how you would attempt to stop yourself in the event of a slip on the hard snow and ice), how to walk with crampons on, and how to efficiently climb up and down snow covered slopes.
(3b) Ski poles are no substitute for an ice axe. Ski poles are great aids in walking. Ascending a route they are like a portable hand rail. On a descent they help reduce some of the jarring to hiker’s knees. They will do nothing to help stop a person in case of a fall. Yes, some ski poles are made with self arrest grips. This is no substitute for an ice axe.
(3c) Using crampons necessitates strapping them to a mountaineering boot that is designed to be compatible with crampons. Many inexperienced folks try strapping crampons onto light footwear, and many “get away” with this. Footwear that isn’t meant to take crampons will have a sole that’s too flimsy to adequately support the crampon frame, is made from lighter material not designed to take the abuse of crampons, and is not insulated as well as a crampon compatible boot. Using crampons on footwear not designed for crampons usually shows its shortcomings on a steep slope where a fall could likely have consequences. Wear a crampon compatible mountaineering boot; not a backpacking boot or trekking shoe.
(3d) Microspikes are no substitute for crampons. After much of the snow has melted and there are still icy patches on the trail microspikes can be fine. Do not attempt to use microspikes on steep slopes where a fall could lead to serious consequences.
(4a) The slope between Trail Camp and Trail Crest is north facing, which causes it to lose sun exposure well before it gets dark. You can be on this slope during a warm sunny day and find the snow comfortable to walk on, but once the sun leaves and the temperature drops the snow will become firm, hard, and slick. It will stay that way until the sun hits it again, which might be the next day, or it might take several days if clouds obscure direct rays from the sun. Even with direct sun exposure the conditions could still be firm, hard, and slick.
(4b) Be prepared to climb on firm, hard, and slick snow. The sun begins leaving the slope adjacent to the 97 Switchbacks around 4PM and is mostly gone by 6PM. The later in the day you’re on the slope the more likely the snow will be firm, hard, and slick.
(5a) Sliding down the snow on your butt (commonly called “glissading” among the mountaineering community) from Trail Crest is not a safe option. It doesn’t matter if you see tracks from people who have previously done it. Among those who contributed to glassade tracks in previous seasons include several people who lost their lives from the decision to glissade there.
(5b) People have tried glissading here for years. Understand that this slope is subtly angled in such a way that it can pull an unsuspecting mountaineer slowly to the left, causing them to slam into rocks at a high rate of speed. Again, there have been many injuries and fatalities due to people glissading here.
(5c) If you decide to glissade anywhere on any mountain remove your crampons. Glissading with crampons is never an option. You run a high chance of injuring an ankle, leg, or worse. It is poor mountaineering technique to glissade while wearing crampons anywhere at any time.
(6a) Remember that the summit should not be your primary goal. Your first goal for all mountaineers is to get back to the parking lot safely. If you can stay within a good margin of safety then the summit is your second goal. This means that just because somebody else decided to ascend in questionable conditions it should not determine what you decide to do. You need to make your decisions based on your known skills and the ability of your group.
Climbing up a mountain is optional, descending is mandatory.
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