May Ascent in Snow

Landed an early May permit for my first go at Whitney. Excited is an understatement.

I have a few questions and would love some input from folks who have climbed Whitney in the snow.

When it comes to the dangers of snow and avalanche, what are the concerns on the Whitney route? It seems like the chute would be the highest risk for avalanche but I’m not sure.

I’m also unsure based on reviews if it is recommended to take the chute in the snow vs if it’s the only option (avoiding the switchbacks)

Thank you!

All of your questions have been answered...check out the recent posts in other threads...

In early May, you will be on snow for a LOT of the route (sounds like you're doing the Main Trail) and will have to climb The Chute...Almost guaranteed that The Switchback will still be mostly buried in deep snow.

Avalanche danger is low on most slopes on the Main Trail, but the north facing slopes off of Candlelight and Irvine can/will slide in warm Spring conditions. (Find the .pdf that Jeff M posted a few weeks ago.)

Thanks RP. Getting familiar with this place and yes, I found a lot of great information.

Regarding the switchbacks vs. the “chute”: When the chute has complete snow coverage, it is always a better option than the switchbacks. It is shorter, steeper, and more direct. It is always possible to take the switchbacks, but the trail up the switchbacks gets covered in snow and is difficult to find. You can waste a lot of time walking twice as far in deep snow looking for the trail. Take the chute, bring real crampons (not MICROspikes), boots with stiff soles, and an axe, and know how to use them.