Four of us are set to hike the Main Trail of Whitney on May 21st. We have permits, tents, zero degree sleeping bags, radios and what we consider "the essentials" for a successful hike. Our training has consisted of long day hikes and a few solid runs at Mt. Baldy fully packed, etc.

Here is my concern: We will have Yaktrax and ice axes but do not all feel 100% confident actually using them for a self arrest. How important are ice axes and/or crampons for the Main Trail in May? We are obviously trying to be as smart and realistic about the hike as possible and would appreciate any advice we can get. We are avid hikers but by no means "mountaineers" and safety is a concern going so early in the season.

If anyone has any specific advice or guidance on the winter aspect of Whitney for beginners please do share. (This is my first post on this site, if it is in the wrong spot feel free to move it accordingly).

You should consider crampons, something like Black Diamond's Contact Strap - it's a 10 point general mountaineering crampon which will attach firmly to different types of boots, ranging from rigid plastic thru flexible, light-duty hikers. Personally, I'm a big fan of Grivel's G10 series, but they may be harder to find in SoCal.

Yaktrax are good for crossing an icy parking lot as emergency footgear. They fall off easily on sloping surfaces, and provide marginal traction at best. Frankly, you'd be safer leaving them at home, as they'd give you a false sense of security.

Agreed Kevin, Grivel G10's are the way to go. You can get them here for a great price (and they are on the West Coast).
Grivel G10's

Good luck,
Stacy

Thanks for the link, Stacy.

The G10 with the New Classic binding is the most versatile.

Agreed again! They are also much more comfortable to hike in than the G12's.
The center "flex bar" helps...especially if you are wearing a lighter or more flexible hiking boot.
Another great Grivel option for backpacking in snow and some ice is this: Air Tech Light . Very light if you are a gram counter, but they are a little more expensive.

The snow conditions in May will vary a lot. You may climb up soft snow where you can easily kick steps without crampons. If you're descending later in the afternoon, the snow may be frozen solid. Take real boots (at least as sturdy as these ) and real crampons meant for climbing snow or ice. Bring an ice axe and learn to use it before you get there.

Under perfect conditions, you can make it up and back without using everything we are recommending. People do it every year. However, if you don't have the proper equipment, you risk having to turn back, you risk having a very scary descent back to camp, and you risk having your name on the evening news.

Grivel G12s (classic strap type) and Kahtoola Microspikes are a great combo. Bob said it best.

Hi You are on the right track ask questions and watch the trip reports until the day you start up the mountain . Watch for pictures of the most often trouble spots, Above Lone Pine Lake ,Outpost Camp and Trailside Meadow , then the slope to Trailcrest.
The best advice is as Bob and the others have said CONDITIONS WILL CHANGE EVERY HOUR!

That Ice ax thing will look good at the store. Look at it again as a machine that can rip open your neck, legs or midsection and at the very best it will do is slow you down if you can set it in the slope as you fall,IF THE SLOPE HAS ICED.

What was that law F=MA or something like that, so if one slips wearing the wrong clothes in that first few seconds that is the opposing force needed to stop you.

Monday afternoon we took a nice walk up to the second waterfall, talked with some hikers making a day of the down climb until one of them fell on a slope that had iced over.

Last season I watched a young man fall above me and go down slope like a hairy goat, tumbled and went down several hundred feet head first.His hiking buddy was making great time on the same slope setting the ax in about 1 inch as he moved cross slope, I needed to mention to him he should set the ax before he moves since a fall would have taken me out!

Success in my mind is go as far as you feel safe and in control, stay away from steep slopes and out of the shadows, watch the surface and do not trick your self thinking conditions will get better. Expect the worst and enjoy the trip.

On a hike last winter a very nice lady talked to me about the conditions and she could tell I had no skill or ability to make it down safe dressed as I was.She told me to be very safe going down and not take any chances. Talk with the climbers coming down about conditions .
Several years ago Bob P was coming off a ridge and told our group that the wind was strong and thought we should head down , we did.

We will have about normal conditions for winter until mid June this year and I expect we will have several fatal accidents until the trail clears so be careful and don't feel bad about turning back , wait until the trail is snow free and enjoy the trip. Might add we get many questions about how deep the snow is I have never understood the question seems like the deeper the better. It's the surface thats going to be the issue. Thanks Doug

Yak Trax are not, in any sense, a substitute for crampons. Camp Stalker USA Universal Crampons are a relatively inexpensive and functional option for moderate snow and ice conditions.
The ability to use an ice axe for self arrest is essential. It requires patient practice to learn. If you are not confident in your ability to gain this skill BEFORE your trip,take a class from a guide. Remember that an uncontrolled slide is very dangerous - collisions with rocks, trees, falling over a cliff, and entangling (and breaking) one's legs are possible results of failed self arrest. Aso keep in mind that extremely hard, icy snow, or crusty snow can make self arrest extremely difficult - these conditions may make you wait for a better day rather than risk it. Another dangerous condition issoft snow covering hard, icy snow - very dangerous.
Kurt Wedberg of Sierra Mountaineering International teaches a snow travel course at a reasonable price, can't vouch for it myself but he is very well respected among the Mt. Whitney climbing community.
Enjoy your trip!

Hi Everyone,

First off, thank you for all of the genuine and useful responses to my question and first post on this forum. After reading many of your replies, we have come to the conclusion that Yaktrax really are almost worthless in mountain conditions and may certainly give a "false sense of security" as some of you mentioned.

With that, it sounds like a pair of Grivel G10's and Kahtoola Microspikes are the best options out there. Can anyone verify the learning curve for using either or both of these products? Either way I will be replacing the yaktrax with Kahoola Microspikes and invest in a pair (or rent) in Grivel G10's to at least ensure we'll feel safer about going down the mountain if conditions change quickly.

We have still been training on Mt. Baldy and actually ran into some semi-scary (for us) hiking as the weather suddenly turned really sour and icey going up Devil's Backbone. We were fully prepared with packs, extra food and the ability to camp out another night if we had to, but the experience along with the comments from this thread just goes to show the dangers and respect needed of the mountain.

Thanks again everyone, I'll certainly keep you posted.

Why bother with the microspikes if you are bringing crampons - isn't that's just extra weight? I believe microspikes are made for walking the dog in icy conditions or for trail runners who head out on gentle but slippery trails where falling isn't a big deal, but I see more and more people climbing in them. Scares me, but I scare easily.

dammit - I just snorted coffee all over my desk...

Scott, did you get to do your climb? How did it go?

Judy, Carole is a nice person. She hikes despite back injuries and we love her sense of humor. Like Norma said, this is a nice place. Shnee! Whoever has been passing out the koolaid, the natives aren't drinking. Goodnight.

took a two day class in Bishop on ice axes and crampons, very helpfull on not shredding myself
I had agreat time slidding down the shoot above trail camp and my ice ax worked !
very smart to have gear when you need it ! like the Military , 1 is none 2 is one