We started from Whitney Portal around 2:40 am, summited about 12:00, and returned about 7:20 pm. This included many stops for pictures, snacks, rest, etc.

The trail from Whitney Portal to Base Camp is clear with a few snowy patches. Nothing to be concerned about.

The switchbacks above Base Camp are mostly, but not all, clear. Large portions of the lower start of the switchbacks are covered in snow. We had to cut through some sections of snow until we met up with the clear trail. The mid-section of the switchbacks are mostly clear. There are a few snowy patches where we lost the trail but crossing them was fairly obvious and easy. The section around the cables was mostly covered in snow. But with a few inches of exposed ledge, existing post holes, and carefully hanging on to the cables, the section is passable. The upper section of switchbacks, just about to the crest is covered in snow. This was the trickiest part because the section is steep and there was no obvious route across the snow to rejoin the trail. We had to take a guess and climbed up a steep section of boulders and snow which eventually met up with the trail. A little ways further we were met with the last snow patch of the switchbacks. This was about at the same level as the crest (top of the chute) but still another hundred yards from it. This snowy section is very steep and great care needs to be taken crossing it. Fortunately those ahead of us left some good post holes which made crossing it easier/safer. Also, there is a lot of water flowing down the switchbacks. We were walking through streams much of the way.

Don't be fooled - once at the crest, the summit is still far off. It took us probably another hour or more to get from the crest to the summit. It's uphill most of the way and extremely exhausting in the thin air. The trail is clear until the backside of Mt. Whitney where there is a large snowfield. This section is not too steep and following the post holes through it is straightforward.

Starting from the crest some dark clouds began to move in. By the time we reached the summit, we were completely socked in and hearing thunder all around us. We stayed only a few minutes then got out of there. As we left the summit it began hailing. The hail and thunder/lightning continued all the way back to the crest. Back at the crest the hail had tapered off into rain.

At the crest we had to make the decision whether to take the chute down or the switchbacks. We were feeling a little anxious and decided the chute may be faster than the switchbacks. We began following existing post holes down but soon realized that this approach was very slow and very dangerous. At one point a patch of snow under my foot gave way and I slid about ten feet before I was fortunately able to stop myself. The chute is very steep and we did not have crampons or ice axes, only poles. We were able to make our way across the chute and rejoin the switchbacks. We retraced our steps all the way down the switchbacks back to Base Camp. There to Whitney Portal was easy compared to what we'd been through.

Conclusion and final thoughts:

• Do not attempt the chute (up or down) without crampons and ice axe (and knowing how to use them). It's much too dangerous otherwise.
• If you don't have crampons or ice axe, then the switchbacks are manageable (but still tricky and a little dangerous in spots) with just hiking/ski poles.
• If you're at the crest and thunderclouds are overhead or coming close, don't attempt the summit. It's still a long ways from there and you'll be very exposed to the lightning. A sign warns you of the extreme danger.
• If attempting the hike again, I'd either wait until late summer when all the snow is melted from the switchbacks, or go all the way with crampons and ice axe to attempt the chute safely.
• Watch the weather predictions and weather during the hike. As they say, the weather can change quickly up there.
• I'm not real good at predicting snow melt, but I'd say the switchbacks still won't be 100% clear until late July / early August.

Thanks for your excellent report. This is the most concise description of the main trail conditions we've seen in the last week, & is most helpful for us as we plan our ascent for this coming Friday, the 15th. We have been up Whitney many times, & have had to negotiate the outer portion of the cables several times. But there has seldom been a year with this much snow, & so little melt during May & June. Being "senior citizens" & with most of our group not experienced with crampons, we have been hoping the main trail would be manageable. With another 6 days for melting, & hopefully some trail-blazing across the traverse to the Crest, I'm thinking we may be OK. Thanks for the great input.

I too think you'll be OK. I'll be a day behind you coming from the west (Lodgepole) and everything I've read says that although this year may be more of a challenge, with a little attention to detail, we'll be fine. The rangers I talked to today think our timing is right. Fortuntely we didn't book an end of June climb. Good luck to you, from a fellow senior.

Here are switchback pictures corresponding to my report:
Switchbacks report 7/6/2011

Excellent photos and trip report. You said that you did not have crampons, so in your opinion are the snow areas doable with microspikes instead of crampons? Thanks.

I just had regular hiking boots -- no crampons or microspikes at all. I think stepping through the existing post holes helped out quite a bit. I don't know, maybe I broke all the rules by not having crampons or microspikes . I guess it's "doable" without them since I did without. But please use your best judgement. I can tell you though that navigating the chute should not be done without crampons or microspikes.

I did the swtichback on July 8, with just hiking poles. We carried microspikes but did not use them. It's quite manageable with just hiking poles.

Many thanks to this forum and the hikers we met at the Portal.

I just got back from my first attempt of Whitney. I made it past trail crest to where I could see the summit but I didn't have enough water or day light left to make it.
Here is a map and pictures.
I did the hike with just trekking poles and boots, going back down the switchbacks in the dark was not fun and I would recommend to anyone, set a turn back time and stick to it.
http://www.everytrail.com/view_trip.php?trip_id=1182547

Definitely a good idea to start early. I started at 1:50am and got down at 10:40pm, a total of 20 hours and 50 minutes. We summited at 1:50pm, 12 hours after the start. While the switchbacks are manageable, it took us 4 hours to finish it. I guess that the snow on the trail accounted for 1/2 to an hour. We were lucky that there were no thunderstorm or rain on July 8.